Trades - The Baker

THE BAKER

 With basket at back, no labour he grudges,

 But whistles and sings, while onward he trudges

 Through hail, rain, or snow, or sultry hot weather;

 His pride is "To keep his connection together."

 To the mistress a bow - a smile to the maid -

 Doughy knows pretty well how to manage his trade;

 Extols the girl's beauty while a loaf she is taking,

 Then tells her what care he will take of her baking;

 Asks her to buy a few biscuits, or cakes,

 Proclaiming what beautiful french bread he bakes;

 Thus Doughy goes on with a good word to all,

 His face it is welcome where 'ere he may call.

 From March's Penny Library 1860

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Here is a great video that I have found with instructions for making a bread oven:

 

Boys Cap In Crochet

From Peterson's Magazine 1862

Boy's Cap In Plain Crochet

Materials - 1/4 oz. brown double zephyr; 1/2 oz. white double zephyr; 1/4 oz Flosselle silk, black; coarse cotton cord, brown or black.
Crochet over the cord with the brown wool, in plain crochet, beginning with six or eight stitches. Widen enough to keep the work flat, until you have 25 rows for the top of crown; be sure to have 200 stitches on the 25th row of the crown, it must measure 16 1/2 centimeters across the top.
The next row begins the side of the cap. Work 23 rows, and only widen 11 stitches in the whole side; turn the cap so as to begin on the wrong side, for the rim, which should turn up all round.

 1st Row - Brown
 2nd Row - White
 3rd Row - White, widen to 224 stitches
 4th Row - White widen 26 times in the whole row. Make 12 stitches of white and 2 of black floss silk. Repeat this 18 times around the cap.
 5th Row - Make 1 white stitch over the last black one of 4th row, and then 2 black ones, to form the pattern
 6th Row - Same as 5th row, and exactly over it
 7th Row - Like the 4th row.
 8th, 9th and 10th Rows - All white
 11th - Row Like the 4th and 7th only observing to make the black spots come in the center, or between those of the lower row
 12th, 13th and 14th Row - Like the 8th, 9th and 10th

Finish with 3 rows of white, 1 row of black silk; the last row of brown zephyr; black zephyr may be substituted for the spots if the silk cannot conveniently be procured.

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From The Illustrated Girl's Own Treasury

TO WORK OVER CORD Frequently done in making mats, baskets &c. Hold the cord along the top of the work, insert the hook as usual and bring out the loop of wool under the cord. Finish the stitch over the cord.

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To change the size of the cap, measure around the top of the child's head. This gives you the circumference. To find the diameter, divide the circumference by 3.14. Use this new number in place of the 16 1/2 centimeters in the pattern. You will then disregard the number of stitches needed in the 25th row.

Circumference divided by 3.14 = Diameter.

 

For example: If the circumference is 19 1/2". 19 1/2 divided by 3.14 is 6.21. Rounding up, I will use 6 1/4" as my new circumference or measurement "across the top".

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"Children's Fashions" illustrations from the same month

 

Trades - The Cooper

THE COOPER

The Cooper retails foot baths, pails,

 Barrels, hogsheads, butts, and firkins;

 Tubs for mashing, cooling, washing,

 Bathing, pickling meat or gherkins:

 He also shaves and bends his staves,

 The monstrous spirit vat to build;

 Then iron bound and hoop'd all round

 With fine OLD TOM 'tis fill'd

 This done, he tries the vessel's size

 And then in figures bold;

 Declares it will if you it fill,

 Five hundred gallons hold.

From March's Penny Library 

Tan Dress with Burgundy Trim

Original Post - 9/17/2012

I picked up some tan wool last year and some burgundy silk and burgundy wool earlier this year. Now I am going to make a dress for myself. Originally, I wanted to make this dress:

But now I am looking for other options because I want to use the burgundy as a ruched trim. Here is one option that I found in La Mode Illustree May 1862:

The trim looks very straight forward and I love the collar and neck ribbon. My only questions are about the buttons, they look like they go all the way down the front of the dress; and the pocket. This is most likely a house dress.

I think I want to use the burgundy wool as trim and the burgundy silk as accessories, IE. silk belt, shawl, ribbons, etc.

10/16/2012 Update

I had enough tan wool to make both a simple coat sleeve dress and a fringed shawl. So now I have all of the burgundy silk and wool left for trimming and accessories. Honestly I can't imagine using the entire length of silk for accessories, nor the entire length of wool for trimming.

Since the dress is going to have a modified coat sleeve, there is room for a nice puffy sleeve under and a pagoda sleeve jacket over top. I am seriously considering making a jacket from the burgundy wool and trimming it with some gold silk left over from making my bonnet.

Here are some more ideas for the dress trim:

 

All three images are from La Mode Illustree Feb 1862

The first image is the most like the original inspiration at the top of this post. The second is nice but we are using that style for my daughters dress, so I will probably not be using it for my dress. The last image has two dresses and I like the bodice trim on the purple dress and the belt ribbon and sleeve jockey on the other.

Here is a jacket sleeve idea:

And here are other jacket ideas:

11/25/2012 Jacket Update 

The burgundy wool as a jacket will not work. I made a muslin and 1 yard just isn't enough. So the jacket was made from some navy, tropical weight wool that I had. Here is the post for the jacket: http://jessicadeandesign.blogspot.com/2012/12/navy-wool-jacket.html. I added navy silk organza ties to my gold silk bonnet so the jacket, when done will still coordinate well with this dress. :D

6/8/2013 Dress Update 

This dress will be made this summer for fall use. I am strongly leaning toward a dress with braces (or ribbon bretelles). Here is a wool dress with black velvet belt and buttons, open coat sleeves and self fabric braces that tuck under the belt and hang over the skirt. The hem and edges are decorated with black taffeta and velvet ribbons.

I'll have to look around some more to see what other decorative options there are for wool dresses with braces. I'd still like to be able to use the burgundy wool and silk somehow.

Update 6/11/2013  

Here is a dress image that I found in Peterson's Magazine 1862.

The dress is trimmed with self fabric ruffles and braid.

Final Update ~ 3/10/2014

Well, this dress just wasn't meant to be. I was all ready to finish the bodice and can't find the fabric anywhere. I have a skirt and a shawl from this beautiful tropical weight wool and was sure that I also had enough for the bodice. However, it seems to be hiding from me, and doing a very good job of it. 

Perambulator

CHILD'S CARRIAGE OR PERAMBULATOR

Guild'S Patent

 This Carriage is superior to every thing of the kind now in use both for safety ease comfort and elegance There is no doubt but that they will supersede all other kinds as they have done in Europe where none who have children would be without them The great advantages are that you have always the children before you They are so easily managed that they can be safely trusted to the care of a child In crossing streets where there are high curbstones or wide or deep gutters they pass over with equal ease and safety They are so built that they cannot possibly turn over can be used in the nursery as well as in the streets or parks They are recommended by all physicians as being conducive to children's health and comfort Ladies giving their children an airing in this carriage will find it an elegant and pleasing recreation as they do in London and Paris. (1857) 

 

 

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Patent from the Journal of the Society of Arts 1859

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PERAMBULATOR One of the most useful inventions of the day and a great improvement on the clumsy four wheeled vehicle in which children were formerly drawn These carriages are made of a variety of forms and at all sorts of prices sometimes however serious defects exist in tbeir construction and this should be attended to previous to purchasing It is necessary that both the hind wheels and that in front should be attached by springs or the jolting on rough roads will be too great for young children If these springs are badly attached they are constantly breaking but by a slight improvement on the common construction this is easily remedied This contrivance consists in attaching the hind axle to the body by a leathern strap so as to prevent a strain upon the spring which the opposition of a large stone or other impediment frequently occasions The adaptation to the cheapest kind of spring used is shown in the engraving The propelling of the perambulator is extremely simple the chief things to be attended to are to depress the handle slightly when going over rough roads so as to raise the front wheel from the ground and lessen the jolting motion and to observe the same precaution when turning the vehicle otherwise the front wheel will be soon worn out The great advantage of the perambulator is that it permits children to be out in the open air and constantly on the move without subjecting the nurse to any fatigue It is as well however to lift the children out occasionally and allow them to exercise their limbs until they feel tired when they can be placed in the perambulator again In cold weather this is especially necessary as children being subjected to the exposure of the keen air in a state of inactivity are liable to be attacked with cramp rheumatism and other painful affections It is a common practice with nursemaids to wheel their young charges to a certain spot and to leave them sitting in their perambulators by the hour together so that they may be spared the trouble of looking after them and enjoy their gossip uninterruptedly Mothers should put a stop to this cruel practice by accompanying the children themselves as frequently as they can or by making unexpected visits to the place where the children are usually taken

 

From The Dictionary of Daily Wants 1861

 

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And lastly comes into notice the little vehicle so well known to all the perambulator it is a somewhat recent innovation probably even since the exhibition of 1851 From the immense number that have been made and continue to be made they have evidently filled a gap that had long waited to be suitably filled Not only were the children's carriages of former times ade on four wheels and to be drawn instead of pushed hateful to most servants that had to draw them but they were the cause of occasional ill feeling between children's nurses and their employers The perambulator fortunately was invented and restored harmony they not only are light and convenient little carriages and if well made durable but with ordinary precautions almost indispensable to the parents nurses and children of the rising generation

 

From the Report on International Exhibition of Industry and Art, London, 1862

 

 

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Patent Folding Perambulator T Trotman This contrivance is constructed upon the principle as the folding chair but with additional strength It economises space as it will stand in the hall or may hang upon a nail oat of the way The arms are jointed by raising op the fore part of the arms and pressing the footboards mid back together It is folded in a moment This is all that is required for general use but if close packing is de ired by removing the thumb serew the handle folds close to the back of the carriage and on unbuckling the strap the front wheel folds closely down By this arrangement the perambulator takes but little room though it is not taken to pieces The patent also extends to various other carriages

 

From the Royal Society of Arts Journal 1856

 

 

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Picnics

I love picnics.... but what were they like in the mid 19th century? Were ladies really sitting on the ground in those big hoops. Where would they go? What types of food did they have? How did they get there? Who went?

Quilting

A painted scene from an 1830s quiting bee. The frame is leaning against the china cabinet in the back.

A old style of quiting frame. The quilt is attached to the long bars and rolled. The gears and stops keep the quilt from unrolling.

An applique quilt from the Wisconsin Historical Society online collection, circa 1858




Threads from The Sewing Academy:
What does one wear to a quilting bee?

Trades - The Basket-Maker

The Basket-Maker

With supple wands and nimble hands

I labour at my trade;

 Some round, some square, I make my ware,

 And better can't be made.

My osiers dry I firmly tie

For market, fruit, or clothes;

 "Who'll buy! who'll buy! come ladies try

 And purchase one of Joe's?"

If once you deal, I'm sure you'll feel

You ve not been doing wrong,

 Though small my gains, I take great pains

 To make them neat and strong.

 

From March's Penny Library 1860 

Sterling Grey Wool

9/5 - With a dress length of grey wool on the way, it didn't take long to find my first style option.

Here is the image of the fabric from http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/

The color is "sterling grey".

Here is the fashion plate that I found in my e-mail this morning from the Ladies Of The 1860s blog. I subscribe to the blog :) It's really fun to find this stuff in your email!!

The image is from La Mode Illustree, Sept 1862 and is probably of silk. It's hard to tell from the image but it could be of wool. It looks to be box pleated and a very simple style. The purple would add a new color to my wardrobe and I could always use a new bonnet...I already have lavender paper china asters (flowers)...  This is a very likely candidate for the fabric. Now to find lavender silk for the shawl and matching wool for the trim.

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9/6 Update - found some violet silk from fabricmart.com:

http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/xcart/CUB975-China-silk-violet-54-Wide.html

 

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10/16/2012 Update - With cold weather upon us, it has become clear to me that a new dress is not needed (as I am still in the process of making my tan and burgundy wool dress). However, a nice warm paletote has been added to my sewing list.

 

In my sewing room there is a yard of midnight blue wool that I think it would make lovely trim and perhaps a nice quilted hood. There was also a yard of dark blue silk organza that could be used as well if I find some inspiration for it.......

 

Here is the idea for my sterling grey paletot with midnight blue wool trim:

 

 

 

5/30/2013 Update - Well, this piece of sterling grey wool has not become a great dress or paletote for use in mid-century living history. Instead, this piece of fabric has moved from the past into the present and become a modern skirt and cape. You can see it (here) on my modern sewing blog.

 

Trades - The Black-Smith

THE BLACK SMITH

 The bellows roar, the fire burris,

 The Smiths their hammers raise in turns;

 The Iron then begins to show

A different shape at every blow.

 Useful in every form it takes,

 Horses shoes, ploughs, spades, or rakes;

 In short, for use we are truely told

 That Iron far surpasses gold

From March's Penny Library 1860

New Fabrics On The Way

There are new fabrics on the way to my house and my sewing list for next year has officially begun. Fashion Fabric Club.com had a sale on cotton $1.99, shirting and voile $2.50, wools and silks $5.00. Here are the great fabrics that I was able to pick up, with the help of my Mom.

"Thanks Mom for the early Christmas present!!!!"

OK, back to the fabrics:

The boys will have matching tunics from this navy print cotton. It is such an interesting, and not at all feminine, print. I may even be able to do something on the bias, perhaps the belts.

 

My older daughter chose this green voile for a nice sheer. She is so good with her clothes that I know it will last for several summers. I can see puffed, short sleeves and low neckline, perhaps a bonnet or hat to match.

 

2/8/2013 Update - Here is what's happening with this green sheer.

 

For my younger daughter, we chose a peach and grey shirting. It's nice and light but still sturdier than a sheer fabric. Again, I can see short, puffed sleeves and maybe some self fabric ruffles along the hemline.

 

11/13/2012 Update - I just picked up some semi-sheer cotton voile in turquoise (here) for my younger daughter so she has requested that this fabric be made into a long, bishop sleeved dress for next fall.

 

I was able to grab this beautiful sterling grey dress weight wool. Now to find inspiration for the dress.

 

9/5/2012 Update - Here is the post discussing my plans for this grey wool

 

 

And the bonus piece is this beautiful yard of dark navy silk organza. I have no idea what will be made from it, but I'm sure an idea will come to me sooner rather than later. :)

 

12/1/2012 Update - This piece of navy organza was added to my bonnet. Read the post here.

I just love fabric sales!!! Their current sale is on wool......

9/8/12 Update - Received the fabric in the mail today. I was surprised at how long it took FedEx to get it to me, but that had nothing to do with Fashion Fabric Club. It is all just perfect!!!! The best part is that I have more than the yardage I purchased. Each piece is just a bit larger than I ordered, except for the wool; I have a whole extra yard of that. I highly recommend this company!!!!

Water Goblets

Setting a nice table is very important. Being able to purchase tableware from before 1860 can be very prohibitive. Thankfully, we have companies that appreciate the styles of the past and offer us some nice, cost saving alternatives.

Here for example is a piece of flint glass, made in the 1860s by New England Glass Co.:

 

and here is a pressed glass water goblet from the Dollar Tree of all places:

 

http://www.dollartree.com/kitchen-tableware/drinkware/Drinkware/Famous-Maker-Cut-Glass-Water-Goblets-10-oz-/213c264c377p327255/index.pro?method=search

 

I will admit that there are a lot of differences between these glasses. The main difference that counts to me is that the Dollar Tree glass is always available, low cost and I have no anxiety about them being broken. I can get as many more as I need.