Improvements To My Sheer Unveiled

As much as I would have loved to make an entirely new sheer.... I really just needed to fix the one that I had.... and so I did.... I hope. I'll start with the reveal. Here is my improved sheer for summer:

Now for the explanation: Here is the original research for this dress and to follow is the dress as it looked in 2012:

* The first thing that stood out to me about the dress is that the cage was not large enough. This style dress is not intended to be worn over a work hoop of 80". A new cage style made an immediate improvement. (Read about that adventure here)

* Upon taking the dress apart, I decided to work on the sleeves. I started by hemming the under sleeves. It wasn't a huge improvement but I felt really good about it. (here's a picture of just the under-sleeves) Next I moved onto those droopy puffs. They really drove me crazy so I divided each one into two. They stand up much better now. The sleeves also got a trim. I wanted those pretty under-sleeves to show more so the over sleeve was shortened by an inch or so.

* The next item of interest is that I never trimmed the dress. It is in need of 1100+ inches of black blonde. Well, there is no way that I could find that quantity of black silk lace so I am debating other options. I was strongly leaning toward embroidered net instead... and doing the embroidery myself. This is not a difficult task just a very time consuming one..... but much less time consuming than producing the lace from scratch. Now, I've been inspired to add silk ribbon to the bottom of my frills. I'm thinking a bias plaid would look really nice. Now to find the bias plaid silk ribbon... This of course is still not finished.

* On we go to the next improvement, which was able to be made at once. I made a new separate/detached bodice lining from scratch. I love it. Here is where it stood originally:

Here is my improvement:

My new lining also has darts. The old one was attached to the sheer and made it very bulky.

*Lastly, I got rid of that white collar and remade the bodice. Thankfully I had loads of that sheer fabric left and was able to re-cut an entirely new top. The first thing that I did was to add an extra two inches to the length. I was really stuck on what style to make. For a while I was set on a pin-tucked cross-over bodice (like this) and then I thought an infant style boat-neck (like this) with a white fichu would be better. In the end I went back to my original inspiration fashion plate (here) and a great picture of Emily Todd (here). A simple V-neck was all I did. After all, there is just so much going on with the flounces and puffed sleeves that the dress really didn't need anything fancy for the bodice.

For accessories I picked up a summer hat and borrowed the blue silk sash from my daughter's fancy dress. She never wears it anyway. I also pulled a brooch from my grandmother's jewel box. I think it gives a nice contrast.

I'm also still playing with the idea of a white ruffle fichu. White next to the skin is highly recommended in the 1860s. I especially like how the white over a blue flounced dress looks in this fashion plate.

Over all I think the improvements are taking me in a very good direction. I'm very pleased with it.

Want to know what else I'm dreaming about? Check out my inspiration/research board on Pinterest:

Follow Wrapped In Scarlet's board Victorian Influence on Pinterest.

Spring Onions

I have harvested a nice bunch of spring onions and now am in need of something to do with them.

Spring Onions

The Kitchen & Flower Garden 1856
"Spring onions being in great request to be eaten raw in salads, as well as for other culinary purposes, the superabundant plants may be drawn from the rows as wanted. But great care should be taken, in so doing not to disturb the rest, nor should the completion of the thinning be too long delayed."

The Young Housewife's Daily Assistant 1864
"SALADS GENERALLY USED - Cos lettuces, cabbage lettuces, endive, beetroot (boiled), celery, cucumber, spring onions, shalots, watercresses, radishes, tarragon, chervil, chives, mustard and cress, &c. Every kind of salad must be quite fresh cut; it must be trimmed, and carefully washed in two or three waters; then put into a coarse cloth and dried, by shaking it up and down; cut or break the salad into pieces half an inch broad; then add the dressing as directed in the following receipt; or it may be served with oil and vinegar, two table-spoonfils of oil to one of vinegar, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of white pepper."

 "SALAD DRESSING - Boil three fresh eggs for ten minutes; when cold, rub the yolks to powder; season with half a saltspoonful of white pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of sifted loaf sugar; mix in the beaten yolk of one egg; add by degrees four tablespoonfuls of salad (Lucca) oil, and drop by drop two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one tablespoonful and a half of vinegar. Be careful to stir the same way all the time. The dressing should look like rich cream. Pour it on to the salad; stir lightly with a fork and spoon, and serve immediately. This quantity will be sufficient for four persons."

The Gastronomic Regenerator 1852
"Oignons Printaniers au Sirop doree - Peel about forty spring onions, each about the size of a walnut, put them into a stewpan, with one ounce of butter and one of powdered sugar, toss them occasionally over the fire, (but be careful not to break the outer skin,) until covered with a light glaze; cover with a white stock and stew very gently till quite done, drain them upon a cloth, dress neatly upon a border of mashed potatoes, reduce and skim the stock till nearly a glaze, add two pats of butter, sauce over and serve."

Spring Goals

I haven't been doing much historical sewing this year... or last year for that matter.... so I'm a bit behind in marking projects off of my goals list. For this reason I am deciding to scrap the list and start over with.... whatever I feel like doing. I'm looking for instant gratification in the form of improvements to current items, wrapping up UFOs, or quick start to finish projects.

Honestly I don't really know where to start. It seems that all the projects that I see are multi part or group projects. Here's what I mean:

~ I'd like to make improvements to the bodice of my blue sheer but first I should make a new fashion corset and 120" hoop.

~ I Will Finish My Tan Dress!!! This also needs the fashion corset and larger cage listed above.

~ Fashionable hat. I especially want one with a black lace veil (mid-century sun glasses). To make this simple, I'm looking for a straw hat to decorate with ribbon and silk flowers.

~ A traveling bag would be very nice. I think that I will start one and work on it at events. I already know what I want to applique on the front.

~ I love sewing challenges so I am starting my own. It's the Undergarment A Month Challenge. The rules are to make one undergarment each month. Alternate monthly according to personal need but be sure to include chemises, drawers and petticoats. Extra corsets and hoops are optional. Each participant that completes the 12 month challenge wins (by the work of their own hands) full sets of brand new underpinnings.