Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Gored Chemise

Here is a gored chemise that I have been working on.

 This hem had been giving me such a problem. I took my dilemma to The Sewing Academy forum and EvaConcetta had this help for me:
"All the originals I've seen just have a very tiny hem -- turn under once about 1/4 to 1/2 inch, then again, and hem it down! It's very utilitarian looking compared to how elaborately the neck and sleeves are done, but it was never meant to be seen -- unlike the bottoms of drawers or petticoats..."

She also included this quote from The Common Things of Everyday Life, published in London in 1857:

"Pin the selvage sides of the gores to the selvage edges of the linen, lay them evenly on a bed, and slope the gores upwards at the bottom; otherwise, the lower ends will hang down in peaks. The pieces sloped off the bottoms of the gores must be kept to line the sleeve- holes."

Thanks for the great quote Eva! So here is the finished chemise.

The next time I make this type of chemise, I will try using the gores cut from the hem to add under the sleeves. I think it would be a great improvement there.


Inspiration for the chemise came from Peterson's 1855. I will add an image when I have the time. The embroidered neck and sleeve will be added later, as time allows me to work on it.


Inspiration for construction of the gored edge came from The Workwoman's Guide. Here is an illustration:
The author suggested folding the length and cutting so that there is no seam at the shoulder and then cutting the hole for the neck. I may try this another time as well.

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