Stones Cut "en Cabochon"

Stones cut en cabochon for the purpose of setting in mid 19th century jewelry are as follows:

Agate
Violet Quartz or Amethyst
Beryl or Aquamarine
Carnelian
Chrysoprase
Emerald
Carbuncles (Garnets)
Jade
Lapis Lazuli
Malachite
Labrador Felspar or Blue Moonstone
Moonstone
Chalcedony or Black Onyx
Opal
Oriental Sapphire
Star Sapphire in red or blue
Oriental Calaite or Turquoise

Lapidary Work in Turning and Mechanical Manipulation, by C. Holtzapffel 1850

This is in depth material on lapidary work in the early Victorian era. A "must read" manual.

Lapidary Work 1854

This lapidary table is very interesting:

and a rim rises about two inches above the top to catch the waste emery and water thrown off by the mill. In the left hand compartment are a hole and a collar through which passes the vertical spindle of the driving wheel a the lower conical end fitting in a rail of the frame. The driving wheel is about eighteen inches in diameter and works just below the under surface of the bench top it is worked by a horizontal handle c.

In the right hand compartment the spindle d carries the mill which is about eight or nine inches diameter and revolves about an inch above the surface of the bench but it may be adjusted by means of a flange and screwed nut to a greater or less distance according as the edge or side of the mill is required to be used.

In the figure the lower centre is a square wooden rod passing through a mortise in a transverse rail of the frame and kept to the desired height by a side wedge. By this contrivance lap spindles of various lengths may be accommodated. The top end of the spindle also works in a wooden centre screwed into a hole near the end of a horizontal iron and e which slides upon a perpendicular bar and is retained at the proper height by the binding screw g. The pulley is about four inches in diameter and is fixed on the spindle just below the bench top.

A little to the right and in advance of the lap is an iron support h called a gim peg or germ peg about eight inches high and in the form of a crank it is secured below the bench by a wing nut so as to allow the peg to be moved round to different distances from the lap as may be required. Its use is to support the arm of the workman in grinding the edges of small stones and also to serve as a guide for the vertical angle in cutting facets for which purpose a wooden socket shown in the figure is slipped over the upper part of the rod and held in its place by a wedge. Holes or notches arranged round the sides of the socket serve to determine the inclination of the stick upon which the stones to be cut are cemented.

A Popular Treatise On Gems 1859

Agate Buttons - 1856

"Fig III. - A New Style of Dress and very beautiful. The corsage is closed up the front with agate buttons and made nearly round at the waist where it is confined by a belt with a gold buckle. A frill of rich black lace forms the braces. The sleeves are quite short the upper port is made of puffings confined by bands running lengthwise. The lower part of the sleeve is a short but wide pagoda and trimmed with black lace." From Peterson's Magazine September 1856

The Ancona Tiara

The Ancona Tiara

"The Ancona Tiara is a pearl and diamond tiara with Italian heritage. The body of the tiara includes groups of three round pearls in diamond trefoil surrounds on a pearl and gold base. The tiara is topped with pearls in two rows, a lower row of round pearls and a top row of upright drop pearls which are slightly irregular in shape - clearly old, baroque pearls. And old this tiara is indeed: it was made for Princess Maria Anna Carolina of Saxony (1799-1832) sometime around her 1817 marriage to Leopold II, Grand Duke of Tuscany."

 

 

From one of my favorite royal jewelry blogs: http://orderofsplendor.blogspot.com/

Lady's Mother of Pearl Belt Buckle

I have been collecting old things that have to do with woman's work and sewing for some time now. Two years ago I bid a few dollars, at a friends auction, for an old tin full of needles, fabric scraps, an old leather glove and small things like that. I purchased it to start my younger daughters collection of sewing items.

She brought it out yesterday, for what reason I'm not sure, and sitting right on top was this little Mother of Pearl buckle.

 

She has been so kind as to allow me the use of her buckle until she has need of it.

Simple Design - Opal Ring

This opal ring from the Victoria and Albert Museum is such a simple design. The opal is ground into a cabochon and set in a bezel cup. It could have been made today by a beginner student instead of in the early 1800s. There are many similar rings found on Etsy today that are made in this style.

Popular Mineralogy

This book is very useful in the study of minerals for mid-century use in jewelry.
I hope you find it as useful as I have.

Agate Ear-drops

"The agate is used, not only for various purposes of jewelry and ornaments, such as seals, snuff-boxes, crosses, cases of various descriptions, ear-drops, &c., but also for numerous other useful purposes..."

From A Popular Treatise On Gems 1859

"A cameo breast pin from the same source had also been preserved and likewise a pair of neat agate ear drops." 

From Arthur's Home Magazine 1858

"We crept out armed with a macintosh and umbrella to the Cabinets d'Hisloire Naturelle of the guides and inspected their agate ear drops, crystal wafer stamps, and chamois horn boot hooks, with intense curiosity...."

From Bentley's Miscellany 1841

"The numerous varieties of Agate are so well known to those who delight to adorn themselves with polished specimens of Nature's works set in brooches, rings, bracelets, ear drops, necklaces, and the like that it will be sufficient slightly to allude to those varieties which are most peculiarly inviting in their appearance."

From Popular Mineralogy 1850

"Many very pretty objects are made of Agate such as necklaces, eardrops, brooches, clasps, rings, buttons, seals, handles for knives, poignards and sabres, vases, cups, boxes, &c."

From Minerals and Their Uses 1849

Observations on Mid-19th Century Jewelry

As I look at early and mid 19th century jewelry, I easily recognize the stark and subtle differences in common jewelry practices as they compare to modern jewelry. Below is listed but a few main differences.

Earrings:
The most stark difference in earrings is that mid century jewelers didn't use jump ring to attach components.

Ear wires were the most dominant type. There was either a mounted jewel or metal design soldered in the front. If the wearer so chose, she could add a component, or not, by way of a hidden hook. Components hung from an attached ring at the top and could also have a hidden hook at the bottom to hang the next component.

Floral and filigree motifs were very common.

Bracelets:
The bracelets that I have studied so far are the type that have bezel mounted gems. Each bezel is attached to the next with two chains. These use predominately box style or hidden clasps.

Necklaces:
The necklaces that I am concentrating on are also the bezel mounted gemstone type. These predominately use box or hidden clasps. The bezels are connected by either one or two chains. Some examples display a filigree alternating with the bezels. Enameling is also common. A coordinating pendent may hang from one of the bezels but not from the chain.

Brooches:
From the front, brooches display simple or complex but symmetrical arrangements. There is a center focal point with an optional surround. The back however is were the "tell" lies. Tube hinges prevail. I have not found an example yet that displayed any other hinge.

Gemstone Settings:
There are several ways that gemstones were cut but my two favorites are en Cabochon and the Rose cut. Cabochons are still set today in the same way they were 150 years ago; in a smooth bezel. The Rose cut gem has fallen out of favor with modern jewelers. The faceted gemstones that I have studies were predominately set in crimped collets. Certain gems were set in certain materials such as diamonds and sapphires in silver and rubies in gold.

Minerals and Their Uses

Jade, Chrysophrase and Moss Agate

(Moved here from my Mid-century Jewelry blog)

I have just received my most recent purchase from Hoff's Rock Shop. These are images from her website as I haven't taken any pictures myself.

This first stone is my favorite of the group. It is called Chrysophrase. The color is apple green and it has been a most popular stone for a very long time. During the Mid-19th century, this was an expensive stone and has continued to keep it's value. I am pleased to have had the opportunity to purchase this stone for a steal.

This next stone is a continuation of my agate obsession. This is moss agate and a very large and, might I add, heavy piece. It is 40x30mm and it seems to want to be a brooch that converts into a pendant. I think that some drop pearls would look nice on this piece as well. Along with the larger stone, I have 3 smaller pieces to match.

The least exciting pieces that I picked up were jade. I just had to have them because they coordinated so well.