Stones Cut "en Cabochon"

Stones cut en cabochon for the purpose of setting in mid 19th century jewelry are as follows:

Agate
Violet Quartz or Amethyst
Beryl or Aquamarine
Carnelian
Chrysoprase
Emerald
Carbuncles (Garnets)
Jade
Lapis Lazuli
Malachite
Labrador Felspar or Blue Moonstone
Moonstone
Chalcedony or Black Onyx
Opal
Oriental Sapphire
Star Sapphire in red or blue
Oriental Calaite or Turquoise

Lapidary Work in Turning and Mechanical Manipulation, by C. Holtzapffel 1850

This is in depth material on lapidary work in the early Victorian era. A "must read" manual.

Lapidary Work 1854

This lapidary table is very interesting:

and a rim rises about two inches above the top to catch the waste emery and water thrown off by the mill. In the left hand compartment are a hole and a collar through which passes the vertical spindle of the driving wheel a the lower conical end fitting in a rail of the frame. The driving wheel is about eighteen inches in diameter and works just below the under surface of the bench top it is worked by a horizontal handle c.

In the right hand compartment the spindle d carries the mill which is about eight or nine inches diameter and revolves about an inch above the surface of the bench but it may be adjusted by means of a flange and screwed nut to a greater or less distance according as the edge or side of the mill is required to be used.

In the figure the lower centre is a square wooden rod passing through a mortise in a transverse rail of the frame and kept to the desired height by a side wedge. By this contrivance lap spindles of various lengths may be accommodated. The top end of the spindle also works in a wooden centre screwed into a hole near the end of a horizontal iron and e which slides upon a perpendicular bar and is retained at the proper height by the binding screw g. The pulley is about four inches in diameter and is fixed on the spindle just below the bench top.

A little to the right and in advance of the lap is an iron support h called a gim peg or germ peg about eight inches high and in the form of a crank it is secured below the bench by a wing nut so as to allow the peg to be moved round to different distances from the lap as may be required. Its use is to support the arm of the workman in grinding the edges of small stones and also to serve as a guide for the vertical angle in cutting facets for which purpose a wooden socket shown in the figure is slipped over the upper part of the rod and held in its place by a wedge. Holes or notches arranged round the sides of the socket serve to determine the inclination of the stick upon which the stones to be cut are cemented.

A Popular Treatise On Gems 1859

Agate Buttons - 1856

"Fig III. - A New Style of Dress and very beautiful. The corsage is closed up the front with agate buttons and made nearly round at the waist where it is confined by a belt with a gold buckle. A frill of rich black lace forms the braces. The sleeves are quite short the upper port is made of puffings confined by bands running lengthwise. The lower part of the sleeve is a short but wide pagoda and trimmed with black lace." From Peterson's Magazine September 1856

Beadwork Adornments

There are occasionally illustrations given for beadwork. I especially like this one:

Sprigs of Flowers for Bead-work, Godey's 1858

Here is an article on beads from the same book:

 

 

 

 

The Ancona Tiara

The Ancona Tiara

"The Ancona Tiara is a pearl and diamond tiara with Italian heritage. The body of the tiara includes groups of three round pearls in diamond trefoil surrounds on a pearl and gold base. The tiara is topped with pearls in two rows, a lower row of round pearls and a top row of upright drop pearls which are slightly irregular in shape - clearly old, baroque pearls. And old this tiara is indeed: it was made for Princess Maria Anna Carolina of Saxony (1799-1832) sometime around her 1817 marriage to Leopold II, Grand Duke of Tuscany."

 

 

From one of my favorite royal jewelry blogs: http://orderofsplendor.blogspot.com/

Lady's Mother of Pearl Belt Buckle

I have been collecting old things that have to do with woman's work and sewing for some time now. Two years ago I bid a few dollars, at a friends auction, for an old tin full of needles, fabric scraps, an old leather glove and small things like that. I purchased it to start my younger daughters collection of sewing items.

She brought it out yesterday, for what reason I'm not sure, and sitting right on top was this little Mother of Pearl buckle.

 

She has been so kind as to allow me the use of her buckle until she has need of it.

Simple Design - Opal Ring

This opal ring from the Victoria and Albert Museum is such a simple design. The opal is ground into a cabochon and set in a bezel cup. It could have been made today by a beginner student instead of in the early 1800s. There are many similar rings found on Etsy today that are made in this style.

Popular Mineralogy

This book is very useful in the study of minerals for mid-century use in jewelry.
I hope you find it as useful as I have.

Agate Ear-drops

"The agate is used, not only for various purposes of jewelry and ornaments, such as seals, snuff-boxes, crosses, cases of various descriptions, ear-drops, &c., but also for numerous other useful purposes..."

From A Popular Treatise On Gems 1859

"A cameo breast pin from the same source had also been preserved and likewise a pair of neat agate ear drops." 

From Arthur's Home Magazine 1858

"We crept out armed with a macintosh and umbrella to the Cabinets d'Hisloire Naturelle of the guides and inspected their agate ear drops, crystal wafer stamps, and chamois horn boot hooks, with intense curiosity...."

From Bentley's Miscellany 1841

"The numerous varieties of Agate are so well known to those who delight to adorn themselves with polished specimens of Nature's works set in brooches, rings, bracelets, ear drops, necklaces, and the like that it will be sufficient slightly to allude to those varieties which are most peculiarly inviting in their appearance."

From Popular Mineralogy 1850

"Many very pretty objects are made of Agate such as necklaces, eardrops, brooches, clasps, rings, buttons, seals, handles for knives, poignards and sabres, vases, cups, boxes, &c."

From Minerals and Their Uses 1849

Observations on Mid-19th Century Jewelry

As I look at early and mid 19th century jewelry, I easily recognize the stark and subtle differences in common jewelry practices as they compare to modern jewelry. Below is listed but a few main differences.

Earrings:
The most stark difference in earrings is that mid century jewelers didn't use jump ring to attach components.

Ear wires were the most dominant type. There was either a mounted jewel or metal design soldered in the front. If the wearer so chose, she could add a component, or not, by way of a hidden hook. Components hung from an attached ring at the top and could also have a hidden hook at the bottom to hang the next component.

Floral and filigree motifs were very common.

Bracelets:
The bracelets that I have studied so far are the type that have bezel mounted gems. Each bezel is attached to the next with two chains. These use predominately box style or hidden clasps.

Necklaces:
The necklaces that I am concentrating on are also the bezel mounted gemstone type. These predominately use box or hidden clasps. The bezels are connected by either one or two chains. Some examples display a filigree alternating with the bezels. Enameling is also common. A coordinating pendent may hang from one of the bezels but not from the chain.

Brooches:
From the front, brooches display simple or complex but symmetrical arrangements. There is a center focal point with an optional surround. The back however is were the "tell" lies. Tube hinges prevail. I have not found an example yet that displayed any other hinge.

Gemstone Settings:
There are several ways that gemstones were cut but my two favorites are en Cabochon and the Rose cut. Cabochons are still set today in the same way they were 150 years ago; in a smooth bezel. The Rose cut gem has fallen out of favor with modern jewelers. The faceted gemstones that I have studies were predominately set in crimped collets. Certain gems were set in certain materials such as diamonds and sapphires in silver and rubies in gold.

Pearl Ring

I have finished my first ring project.

This ring features a natural, un-dyed, pink pearl set in sterling silver.

 

  

 

 

As for the inspiration for this piece, I absolutely fell in love with the pearl rings at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Here is my favorite from their online collection:

I found a setting that is similar and so of course I went on a search for that beautiful pink pearl. To my dismay, it is a conch pearl and still very rare. There are places to get them but the price is prohibitive for most (me included).

Here is some of my research for this:

According to Minerals and their Uses (1849) both fresh water and salt water pearls were well known and fishing for them was written about in many books. The author did not know how pearls were made but he does list some theories. The book also mentions colors, sizes and prices of pearls. For example a necklace with pearls the size of peppercorns would cost 1s 6d per pearl. (I have no idea what that means)

In A Popular Treatise On Gems (1859) they still state that they don't really know how pearls are made but they do go into how they are artificially made by the Chinese. They string small pearls and place them in the "fish" when they are open and then go back and get them in "some years". It goes on to say that "The price (of pearls) has, within the last forty years, much diminished, for two reasons: 1st. Diamonds, and particularly brilliants, have become more plentiful, and have since been worn, not by the higher classes alone, but also by the middling. 2nd. Within the last twenty years, artificial pearls (the ones farmed by the Chinese) have been manufactured in high perfection, and are worn to a great extent." It also says that "a great many thousand pearls" were produced in New Jersey. It goes on to tell the story of a man who went out to get some oysters from Notch Brook for his breakfast and when he opened them, pearls fell out. He took the pearls to a jeweler and found out they were valuable. The man and jeweler then started collecting and harvesting them to sell.
More inspiration for future rings from the V and A museum:

 

 

 Update - I have been commisioned to make more of these rings. If you would like one, visit my Etsy shop. Thanks.

Minerals and Their Uses

Roman Earrings

From Arthur's Home Magazine 1860

"Roman ear rings, about one and a half inches in diameter, in the form of a square edged, thick ring of massive gold, with the edges chased"

 

I find these earrings to be very interesting. Not because they are closed hoops, but because I don't "see" how they would be put on. The French wire is the most prevalent post used in this time but it is not illustrated as such. Obviously the artist took liberty in this engraving.

Royal Jewelry - Norway and Sweeden

Queen Josephine of Sweden and Norway (1807–1876)

Queen Josephine's crown worn by Queen Sonja of Norway.

ISG Registered Gem Dealer

I have completed the course and passed the exam for ISG's Registered Gem Dealer designation.

 

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

In February of 2012 I sent away for the ISG (International School of Gemology) Registered Gem Dealer home study course.

Course Provider: International School of Gemology
Course Name: Registered Gem Dealer
Course Cost: $195.00
Course Description (taken from the provider's website):

"The ISG Registered Gem Dealer program has been specifically designed for those who either are interested in becoming a gemstone dealer, or those who are already in the business and want to learn more about the gemstones they sell. The program comes in two parts: The ISG Registered Gem Dealer Course and the ISG Gem Equipment 101 DVD. Here is the information:
This program consists of a 14 lesson course in gemstone markets, identification, marketing, and market development. It is designed to benefit those new to the business as well as those who have been around a while.
Here is an overview of the course program:

• Ethics and Ethical Selling
• Setting up a gem dealer office including recommended equipment
• Forms, Invoices and Documentation
• Sources and resources to help your business grow
• Choosing your specialty
• Lab reports and a review of the major gem labs
• Basics of Gem Identification
• Basics of Diamond Grading
• Basics of the Identification of Synthetic and Treated Gemstones
• Review of Gemstones A - L:
• Review of Gemstones M - Z
• Competing in a Global Market
• Setting up your Internet presence
• Marketing Technique of the Successful Gem Dealer

The Gem Equipment 101 DVD is a special edition of the original education production of the ISG. This DVD is a 1 1/2 hour guide that takes you through all of the gemological equipment and teaches you how to use the equipment. While not a fully gemological education, for those who would like to better understand the gemological equipment and see video of the equipment in action....shot right through the equipment itself, this will be a great learning experience.
We cover real time video footage on How To Use The....:

• Refractometer
• Microscope
• Polariscope
• Dichroscope
• Spectroscope
• Jewelers Loupe
• Tweezers and hand tools
• SG Liquids
• Precious metals testing\
• And many other items that are important to gem identification.

Please note that this video was originally shot in VHS videotape and has been digitally remastered specifically for this ISG Registered Gem Dealer program as it contains footage that is very difficult to obtain. Some of the diamond grading information is contained in our ISG RG and RGA Program course videos. So this is a must see. It has not been available for several years but we recovered the original master copy and digitally remastered it for this Registered Gem Dealer Program.
All of this is included in your US$195.00 price. There is nothing else to buy and no other fees to pay other than First Class shipping of approximately $6.95.
Upon completion of this course program you will be able to set up and establish a gemstone dealer's office including all aspects of operations.
Certificate of Completion Awarded upon completion. Your name will be listed in the ISG Registered Gem Dealer Directory. You will be able to use the ISG Registered Gem Dealer logo in your business.
Free one year Registered Gem Dealer membership in the World Gem Society. Learn more at www.WorldGemSociety.org.
Course Delivery: PDF files via CD that is sent to you. Final Exam is online through the ISG Final Exams system."

My Review:

I watched the 101 Gem Equipment DVD first and loved seeing the different equipment, how they were used, what was seen by each and so on. I didn't realize that gemstone grading and evaluation was so complicated. I also learned that I have a lot more to learn.

Then I started with the lessons. Lesson 1 on ethics was very informative as to what is and has been going on in the gem world as far as fraud. Ethics is pushed a lot in this course.

Lesson 2-6 & 12-14 were directed to setting up and running a gem dealer business. It discussed things that I didn't know about insurance, lab reports and gemological paperwork.

I especially liked the lessons on gem identification and treatments. These 5 lessons had images taken through the gemological equipment and were very nice. I didn't realize how many gemstones there were or that there were so many treatments and ways to create gemstones in a lab.

Overall this course was very useful for someone who wants to learn the basics of the industry and how to get a nice start. This is not an ivy league graduate course that will certify or enable you to grade or evaluate diamonds or gemstones. Think of this as a community collage or vo-tech introductory class.

My guess would be that this course was created to promote a basic understanding of the industry and to promote ethics and ethical practices at a grass roots level. I enjoyed the class and look forward to taking the ISG Registered Gemologist Program or I may skip ahead and just dive into the ISG Registered Gemologist Appraiser Program. One of my goals is to be able to appraise gemstones and jewelry for myself.

Jewelry Posts

In February 2012 I started a new blog to follow my research in jewelry. Looking back, I realize that I don't really want another blog, so I will be adding the jewelry information to this one, and deleting the other. It will probably take a while, so I hope you all don't mind.

Jade, Chrysophrase and Moss Agate

(Moved here from my Mid-century Jewelry blog)

I have just received my most recent purchase from Hoff's Rock Shop. These are images from her website as I haven't taken any pictures myself.

This first stone is my favorite of the group. It is called Chrysophrase. The color is apple green and it has been a most popular stone for a very long time. During the Mid-19th century, this was an expensive stone and has continued to keep it's value. I am pleased to have had the opportunity to purchase this stone for a steal.

This next stone is a continuation of my agate obsession. This is moss agate and a very large and, might I add, heavy piece. It is 40x30mm and it seems to want to be a brooch that converts into a pendant. I think that some drop pearls would look nice on this piece as well. Along with the larger stone, I have 3 smaller pieces to match.

The least exciting pieces that I picked up were jade. I just had to have them because they coordinated so well.