A Problem And A Plan

I have been really struggling with the weight of my clothes. I generally wear a chemise and drawers, a corset, a cage, two starched petticoats and a dress. All of this really bogs me down. Individually, each piece is very comfortable but that is not appropriate for going out to an event.

In looking at fabric I came across some lovely white cotton lawn for a very reasonable price. It was on sale for less than $4 a yard. Unfortunately I missed the sale by a day but I made the purchase anyway. I had my mind made up.

My plan is to make a nice, light chemise, a pair of drawers, and at least one petticoat from this lawn. I would love to use it to remake my blue sheer but I will probably need to order more for that. 

I started a challenge for myself a few years ago and I think that I will pick it up again now. It was to make an undergarment item each month for a year. How nice it will be to have 3, new, full sets!!! 

Making A Ball Gown ~ Finished

Ball Gown Update 2/4/15 ~ My dearest husband decided to surprise me with tickets to the Winter Ball in Gettysburg last Saturday. I was fortunate to have been told and was able to start at the beginning of January. As you can imaging, I worked daily to get my gown finished before the event. This lovely surprise moved my due date for this project up an entire month. Here's what I completed:

The first thing that I had to do was to remake my cage.... again. Our trip to Cedar Creek really destroyed it. I also added an attached bum roll to help with a back thrust for my skirts. I really like how it turned out but looking at the pictures, I think that I could go wider with my cage.

I do confess that most of the work went into the flounced petticoat or under skirt. There are 11 flounces and each one took an entire day. They are all hand hemmed and hand gathered. However, I did use the machine to attach the flounces to the base skirt. My favorite part about this petticoat is that I can use it under the wrapper that I have planned as well as for the skirt of my new sheer.

The silk for the bodice and over skirt came from FashionFabricsClub.com. It's called "Bronze Brown Silk Taffeta" and has an embroidered check design. I do confess that when I first opened the package I almost cried.... it looked like curtains. It had taken so long to arrive and I didn't have any time to send it back and order something else. I shoved it back into the bag and tried to forget about it for a few days. Finally, I pulled it back out and draped it on my mannequin. After a few days of looking at it draped like that, it slowly started to look like dress fabric.

The bodice and over skirt were finished in about a week. I used Past Patterns 704 for this and really like how the double puff sleeve turned out. I used a straight size 18, only taking in the side seams about 1/4 inch on each side. I also put in a gathering stitch to narrow the sleeve openings but other than that I made no alterations. It would have been nice if there was an actual bertha pattern included.

The bows were made from black silk satin organza. I wanted to use wide silk ribbon but everything that I saw was very limp and wouldn't have given the look that I was going for. The fabric was ripped into strips and hemmed on both sides. Then the bow was made and two were attached to the over skirt and one went into my hair.

I am already planning my improvements for this gown. I'm going to add a sheer bertha decorated with strips of the bodice fabric (if I have enough) and take a little bit off on the side seams of the bodice. I had wanted to also make a new under skirt of silk but after the gown was stepped on so many times and drug on the dirty ground, I may just stay with a washable (and bleach-able) fabric.

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12/09/2014 - Wouldn't you know that as soon as I start on a major project, like making a quilt, along comes another major project, like making a ball gown. We are hosting a party that includes a dance master, gowns and a lovely historic venue. So, of course I have to have a ball gown. After all, you can't hostess a ball without one, right?

Here are some ideas that appeal to me:

I'm going for a two part dress such as the red one above. I really like the open bodice style.

The ruffled underskirt is very nice on this one. For mine, I'm thinking a white underskirt and a colored over skirt.

I especially like this red one. 

I love this painting of Lady Elizabeth Gilstrap (1822-1891) by Richard Buckner (Newark Town Council, Newark, Nottinghamshire UK) . You can see her flounced, sheer under skirt. 

Currently, I have no silk. So, a sheer flounced underskirt would be a great place to start. I have until the end of February to finish my dress. Wish me luck!

Other Inspirational Gowns:

Here is a lovely example of a sheer flounced ball gown from the MET Museum

Godey's Lady's Book, December 1859

I adore the blue one on the far left. Is that 13 rows of flouncing that I see? Here's the description: Fig. 1. we have one of those characteristic tunic dresses, introduced of late, and notable for their novelty at least. Underskirt or petticoat of white silk, covered by innumerable small flounces. Tunic and corsage of blue satin; sleeves of white silk, with a ruche of blue; berthé trimmed with point lace.

Peterson's Magazine 1860

I had been wondering if ribbon trimmed flounces would be an option... and it looks like they are. Fig. I. -Evening-dress of White Tulle, trimmed with eleven narrow tulle flounces, edged with blonde and narrow currant-colored velvet. A tunic of spotted tulle is trimmed with a broader velvet, a long wreath of velvet flowers, and a large bow of velvet ribbon. The sleeves and the berthe, which is of a heart shape, are trimmed to correspond with the skirt. Wreath of green leaves and velvet flowers. 

I really like this yellow one as well. I could use some gold silk that I have for the bodice and bows and order something that coordinates for the over skirt.

Lovely Ideas For January

I have so many projects in the works now but I really enjoy looking through the old magazines. Today's favorite was January's subscription to Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1859. There are so many wonderful items in there to take note of. Here are my favorites:

I'm in love with this woodcut that opens the number. It is titled "These Are My Jewels". I can relate to this image of a mother in the presence of her darling children. They are her most precious possessions.

Since quilting has become my new long term project, this quilting pattern was very interesting as well. I really love the heart shapes. They really don't stand out as hearts so I think they will go well, or a version of this, on my Baby Blocks Quilt.

Being a lace maker, I was immediately drawn to this crochet imitation Honiton cuff and collar pattern. I wasn't able to find the instruction for this so I will need to go back and scour the issue again later. Most likely it will read that it can be made up easily from the illustration given.

And then there comes a cute story for parents about allowing their toddlers to learn to climb the stairs. I've read it before but skipped reading it today. However, it did bring a ready smile at the recollection.

Now that is something that I didn't remember from this issue. The Self Supporting Tournure. The main difference between this and our more recent cage supports is that the steels are represented by the vertical stripes and the horizontal are tapes. This is very interesting.

A tatted trim on chemise, petticoat, and children's clothing always looks lovely. The pearl is call a picot in recent times and this arrangement is very nice. Perhaps when I am bored of stitching my quilt pieces, I could work on some tatting. After all my shuttle is kept in my sewing box and is very convenient to take when visiting.

Speaking of my sewing box. This little needle book would look lovely in there. It makes my current needle book pale in comparison.

And of course there were other little project and nice stories to read but these were the ones that I wanted to note here, sort of as a reminder to myself. Perhaps I should start a notebook or two. One for quilting patterns and one for tatting patterns that can be kept in my sewing box for reference.


I have a bit of velvet, some bugle beads, cardboard, and ribbon. Perhaps I can take some time and put together that needle book some evening this month. We will have to see.

A Sheer Blouse

I honestly don't know what to call the piece that I am working on. Simply put, it's a white cotton sheer blouse.... but really it's more than that. To follow are some of the images that inspired this piece.

 'He Loves Me!' John Dawson Watson - 1858 Private Collection

Photo by Albert Bisbee, OH, c. 1850s

 

 

cotton bodice printed with tiny horses c.1858

I really like how well it turned out. The fabric is 2.5 yards of cotton batiste from Needle and Thread. I haven't added any closures yet but I may try some buttonholes if I can pick up button hole twist for a reasonable price. I like the option of being able to wear this top tucked in or worn over a dress or corset cover. I've already worn this twice and love how cool and comfortable it is.

 Image credits: Craig Shipp

Improvements To My Sheer Unveiled

As much as I would have loved to make an entirely new sheer.... I really just needed to fix the one that I had.... and so I did.... I hope. I'll start with the reveal. Here is my improved sheer for summer:

Now for the explanation: Here is the original research for this dress and to follow is the dress as it looked in 2012:

* The first thing that stood out to me about the dress is that the cage was not large enough. This style dress is not intended to be worn over a work hoop of 80". A new cage style made an immediate improvement. (Read about that adventure here)

* Upon taking the dress apart, I decided to work on the sleeves. I started by hemming the under sleeves. It wasn't a huge improvement but I felt really good about it. (here's a picture of just the under-sleeves) Next I moved onto those droopy puffs. They really drove me crazy so I divided each one into two. They stand up much better now. The sleeves also got a trim. I wanted those pretty under-sleeves to show more so the over sleeve was shortened by an inch or so.

* The next item of interest is that I never trimmed the dress. It is in need of 1100+ inches of black blonde. Well, there is no way that I could find that quantity of black silk lace so I am debating other options. I was strongly leaning toward embroidered net instead... and doing the embroidery myself. This is not a difficult task just a very time consuming one..... but much less time consuming than producing the lace from scratch. Now, I've been inspired to add silk ribbon to the bottom of my frills. I'm thinking a bias plaid would look really nice. Now to find the bias plaid silk ribbon... This of course is still not finished.

* On we go to the next improvement, which was able to be made at once. I made a new separate/detached bodice lining from scratch. I love it. Here is where it stood originally:

Here is my improvement:

My new lining also has darts. The old one was attached to the sheer and made it very bulky.

*Lastly, I got rid of that white collar and remade the bodice. Thankfully I had loads of that sheer fabric left and was able to re-cut an entirely new top. The first thing that I did was to add an extra two inches to the length. I was really stuck on what style to make. For a while I was set on a pin-tucked cross-over bodice (like this) and then I thought an infant style boat-neck (like this) with a white fichu would be better. In the end I went back to my original inspiration fashion plate (here) and a great picture of Emily Todd (here). A simple V-neck was all I did. After all, there is just so much going on with the flounces and puffed sleeves that the dress really didn't need anything fancy for the bodice.

For accessories I picked up a summer hat and borrowed the blue silk sash from my daughter's fancy dress. She never wears it anyway. I also pulled a brooch from my grandmother's jewel box. I think it gives a nice contrast.

I'm also still playing with the idea of a white ruffle fichu. White next to the skin is highly recommended in the 1860s. I especially like how the white over a blue flounced dress looks in this fashion plate.

Over all I think the improvements are taking me in a very good direction. I'm very pleased with it.

Want to know what else I'm dreaming about? Check out my inspiration/research board on Pinterest:

Follow Wrapped In Scarlet's board Victorian Influence on Pinterest.

Sparsely Adorned Sun Hats

Sparsely adorned sun hats have been on my mind lately due to the fact that I just purchased a hat and have no time to embellish it. Luckily it came with a cute ribbon. Here are some examples from the period:

Preparing For A Walk, Samuel Baldwin

Lizzie Clapp, North Bridgewater Mass.

Hemmed Undersleeves

I'm in the process of re-making my navy sheer dress. I was under a deadline when I first put this dress together and never went back to finish the details. Well, here is one of those details. I finally hemmed my undersleeves and I think they look great.

Yes, the small things make me happy.

Re-made Skirt Support

I'm working to remake my wardrobe as well as my impression and one of the first considerations in this endeavor is to remake my underpinnings. I have been converting my work corset into a fashion corset but I haven't gotten all of the kinks worked out of that. However, I have come to like the shape of my refreshed cage.

My original intention was to add a larger bottom rung, increasing it from 90" to 100+. However, as I was reattaching the hoops (after having taken them all off, reshaping them, adding more vertical tapes, etc.) I found that raising the top one, along with all the rest, gave a nice shelf to my bell shape. This in turn gives the appearance or illusion of a much fuller skirt support without actually increasing the bottom hoop. As it turns out, I like it enough to try it like this for a while.

Hopefully I will be able to finish my sheer dress remake within the next week and enjoy my "new" shape at an event.... as things currently stand, I have no dress that fits and flatters.... but I'm working on that.

In case you are wondering what silhouette I'm going for, here is an image to help. Do keep in mind that I'm not trying for anything nearly that big.

Spring Goals

I haven't been doing much historical sewing this year... or last year for that matter.... so I'm a bit behind in marking projects off of my goals list. For this reason I am deciding to scrap the list and start over with.... whatever I feel like doing. I'm looking for instant gratification in the form of improvements to current items, wrapping up UFOs, or quick start to finish projects.

Honestly I don't really know where to start. It seems that all the projects that I see are multi part or group projects. Here's what I mean:

~ I'd like to make improvements to the bodice of my blue sheer but first I should make a new fashion corset and 120" hoop.

~ I Will Finish My Tan Dress!!! This also needs the fashion corset and larger cage listed above.

~ Fashionable hat. I especially want one with a black lace veil (mid-century sun glasses). To make this simple, I'm looking for a straw hat to decorate with ribbon and silk flowers.

~ A traveling bag would be very nice. I think that I will start one and work on it at events. I already know what I want to applique on the front.

~ I love sewing challenges so I am starting my own. It's the Undergarment A Month Challenge. The rules are to make one undergarment each month. Alternate monthly according to personal need but be sure to include chemises, drawers and petticoats. Extra corsets and hoops are optional. Each participant that completes the 12 month challenge wins (by the work of their own hands) full sets of brand new underpinnings.

Agate Buttons - 1856

"Fig III. - A New Style of Dress and very beautiful. The corsage is closed up the front with agate buttons and made nearly round at the waist where it is confined by a belt with a gold buckle. A frill of rich black lace forms the braces. The sleeves are quite short the upper port is made of puffings confined by bands running lengthwise. The lower part of the sleeve is a short but wide pagoda and trimmed with black lace." From Peterson's Magazine September 1856

Sewing List 2013

Well, it seems that I was away from historical sewing for 2013. Not many items were crossed off my list. Perhaps it would be a good idea to carry over my list into 2014. I know my girls would appreciate it. Our first event is the second Saturday in April. Wish me luck. :)


1/1/2013 - I will finish the things that I didn't get to last year as well as the new items that I want for my family for this year.

The Baby:
tatted collar - due 4/?/2013
Swimming Costume - due 6/2013

My Older Son:
Flannel Swimming Costume - Due 6/1/13
Wrapper - due 11/2013

My Younger Daughter:
Peach and Grey Long Sleeved Dress

Underclothes
Turquoise Sheer Dress - Due 6/1/13
Hat to match turquoise dress - Due 6/1/13
poplin dress

sleeves and collar for poplin dress
purple wool paletote - due 4/2013
cage

Older Daughter:
Wrapper - due 11/2013
Green Sheer - Due 6/1/13
Hat to match Green Sheer - Due 6/1/13
Underclothes
sheer body, wool/silk skirt, blue silk belt

gold silk hat - due 4/2013
blue wool paletote - due 4/2013

For Me:
Tan Wool Dress w/ Burgundy Trim
Blue Sheer, Drawn Bonnet - Due 6/1/13
Rework my Sheer, Flounced Dress Body - Due 6/1/13
Underclothes
Ball Gown - Due 11/1/13 (in my dreams but not really)
Dress cap
Kid gloves
110" cage
Fashion corset
Add more trimmings to my gold silk bonnet - done 6/11/2013

My Husband:
Silk Vest - Due 11/1/13
Cravat - Due 11/1/13

My Mother:
Underpinnings
Corset
Dress
Bonnet
Shawl

Extras:
Needle Books
Draw String Bags
Quilt top - Due 8/1/13

Starting On Winter Wear

It's still very nice outside but the cold weather will be here before too long so I think that I should start on some warm garments for my children. After the cold temperatures have arrived is not the best time to start on these things. I'd rather be well on the way with only a few finishing touches when Old Man Winter starts blowing in my door.

I am still planning on finishing my tan and burgundy dress for use at the Remembrance Day Parade, November 23rd in Gettysburg. My bonnet is acceptable as it is now and I only have a few touches to add to the jacket that I made last year. Mostly, I would like to make crochet closures for down the front of it.

I love lists so here goes:

~ crochet closures and maybe some trim for my blue jacket
~ red wool petticoats for myself and my older daughter
~ long sleeve tunic and belt for my son
~ short button pants for my younger son
~ pants for my older son
~ wool gaiters for everyone
~ traveling bags for myself and my older daughter
~ finally finish the wrapper for my younger daughter
~ gloves

Here's my list for the year. So far I am not on schedule but it's all fun anyway.

Traveling Bag

I added a traveling bag to my to-do list a few weeks ago. This particular bag goes over the arm and is embroidered. I have no time to embroider such a large design and have been looking for an applique instead. Here is one that I found in Arthur's Home Magazine 1858. Notice that the description says that it is suitable for a bag.

Short Skirts For Ladies

I have been noticing a trend or fad or unusual fashion or whatever you would like to call it. Basically it is the use of pants and a short skirt on ladies (and girls). I will collect examples here:

The Metropolitan Gymnastic Costume from Godey's 1858

 

Here is an article from The Ohio Cultivator 1854 about wearing short skirts for ease of work and exploration:

 

Skirt, Blouse, Vest and Jacket Combinations

I have come across a very nice wood cut of a lady's vest. But seeing the vest leads me to more questions. Under what circumstances would this be appropriate and of what materials. Here is a bit of what I have found so far:

From Peterson's 1863

 

I really love this one. You can obviously tell that the vest coordinates with the skirt and jacket. I will have to go to the book and get the information on fabrics.

 

From Peterson's Magazine for March 1862

 

Figure II, House Dress of Lilac Delaine. The skirt as well as the Zouave Jacket are braided in black, and a white cashmere vest is worn under the jacket, with a cashmere collar. Cap of guipure lace, trimmed with bows of lilac ribbon.

 

From Peterson's Magazine November 1861

 

Fig II. - Home Dress of Purple Cashmere, which is trimmed with an imitation of fur called Astracan cloth. The under-body or waistcoat fits close to the figure, and has long tight sleeves. The Zouave jacket is loose, with large flowing sleeves, lined with white silk, quilted. Cap of Honiton lace, trimmed with purple China asters.

 

 

Street Dress of light silk, trimmed with narrow black silk ruffles. Found in Arthur's Lady's Home Magazine June 1863

 

For this one I am thinking that the editor made an oversight and matched the incorrect description with the image. Also, I wouldn't really call this a jacket but you can clearly see that the vest front is not attached to the skirt.

 

Illustration of a vest from Der Bazar January 1863

 

Illustration and Description of a jacket from Peterson's Magazine, 1864

WALKING DRESS - Of mohair; turban of black straw, with wing and plume. Light cane, the latest Paris fashion. Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1864

The Lady's Friend 1864