Water-closets ~ Flush Toilets

While doing some research on indoor plumbing I stumbled across the term "watercloset". This struck me as odd because I know that term refers to "the room with a toilet". So, I redirected my energies in that direction.

As it turns out, the beginnings of what we know as the flush toilet was invented in 1585 by Sir John Harrington and installed for his grandmother Queen Elizabeth I at Richmond Palace. He published a work called A New Discourse of a Stale Subject, Called the Metamorphosis of Ajax. The main feature was a a flush valve to let water out of the tank, and a wash-down design to empty the bowl.

In 1775 the S-trap was invented by Alexander Cumming. It used standing water to seal the drain, preventing foul air from the sewer from coming into the chamber. His design had a sliding valve in the bowl outlet above the trap.

Joseph Bramah improved the design by replacing the usual slide valve with a hinged flap that sealed the bottom of the bowl. In 1778 he obtained a patent for a float valve system for the flush tank.

In 1829 architect Isaiah Rogers, designed the Tremont Hotel in Boston with eight water closets on the ground floor. In 1834 he built the Astor House in New York City.

In the 1840s, George Jennings had a business manufacturing water closets, salt-glaze drainage, sanitary pipes and sanitaryware at Parkstone Pottery. During The Great Exhibition in 1851, he installed his Monkey Closets in the Retiring Rooms of The Crystal Palace and charged a penny to use it. This started the term "to spend a penny" meaning to use the pay toilet. He continued to make improvements to the design. By the 1860s English building codes suggested that new homes be built with water closets.

Published in The Young Housekeeper, 1852
"In every respectable family house there will generally be two or three water-closets, and it is expected that the housemaid should understand the proper method of keeping them always sweet and clean, and fit for use;- this is easily done with a little attention: all that is requisite is to know the time the water comes into the cistern, and while it is coming in, to lift up the handle of the water-closet and let the water rush away; then put the handle down, let the basin fill again with water, and, raising up the handle, let it off again with a rush; and so continue to do for full five minutes at least, once every day,- and families should never allow printed or stiff paper to be used, or it will stop and spoil the best water-closets; only thin whitey-brown, or curl paper is proper.
If a water-closet should get clogged, either from using still printed paper, or from want of using plenty of water, or from any other cause, it is best to ask your mistress to let you desire the plumber to bring his plunger, with which he will easily set it free, at the expence of a shilling, if he is an honest man; for not onetime in if hundred does it require any thing else to be done to it, if plenty of water is used; for which purpose it is good to take off the ball-cock in the cistern, and let all the waste water, after the cistern is full, run off through the waste pipe; which will tend to keep the drains clean, and also prevent the water freezing in winter weather."

In 1857 William Campbell and James T. Henry received an American patent for a plunger closet. It resembled the twin-basin water closets.

In 1859, Nicolay August Andresen, a banker in Norway insured 3 water closets in his town house.

In the 1859 the Alfred Vidal Davis family of Natchez, Miss., had indoor hot-and-cold running water and an indoor toilet. This home later became the Dunleith Inn. The shower and flush toilet system was sold by a company in New Orleans called Price & Coulon.

From Godey's Magazine, 1859

An alternate term for water closet was "wash down closet". Before the tern water closet was use the toilet was sometimes referred to as the earth closet or toilet chair. I actually like toilet chairs and they really went by many names depending on the when and where. Other names for this piece of furniture are close stool, necessary stool, night stool, convenience, and night commode.

Making A Ball Gown ~ Finished

Ball Gown Update 2/4/15 ~ My dearest husband decided to surprise me with tickets to the Winter Ball in Gettysburg last Saturday. I was fortunate to have been told and was able to start at the beginning of January. As you can imaging, I worked daily to get my gown finished before the event. This lovely surprise moved my due date for this project up an entire month. Here's what I completed:

The first thing that I had to do was to remake my cage.... again. Our trip to Cedar Creek really destroyed it. I also added an attached bum roll to help with a back thrust for my skirts. I really like how it turned out but looking at the pictures, I think that I could go wider with my cage.

I do confess that most of the work went into the flounced petticoat or under skirt. There are 11 flounces and each one took an entire day. They are all hand hemmed and hand gathered. However, I did use the machine to attach the flounces to the base skirt. My favorite part about this petticoat is that I can use it under the wrapper that I have planned as well as for the skirt of my new sheer.

The silk for the bodice and over skirt came from FashionFabricsClub.com. It's called "Bronze Brown Silk Taffeta" and has an embroidered check design. I do confess that when I first opened the package I almost cried.... it looked like curtains. It had taken so long to arrive and I didn't have any time to send it back and order something else. I shoved it back into the bag and tried to forget about it for a few days. Finally, I pulled it back out and draped it on my mannequin. After a few days of looking at it draped like that, it slowly started to look like dress fabric.

The bodice and over skirt were finished in about a week. I used Past Patterns 704 for this and really like how the double puff sleeve turned out. I used a straight size 18, only taking in the side seams about 1/4 inch on each side. I also put in a gathering stitch to narrow the sleeve openings but other than that I made no alterations. It would have been nice if there was an actual bertha pattern included.

The bows were made from black silk satin organza. I wanted to use wide silk ribbon but everything that I saw was very limp and wouldn't have given the look that I was going for. The fabric was ripped into strips and hemmed on both sides. Then the bow was made and two were attached to the over skirt and one went into my hair.

I am already planning my improvements for this gown. I'm going to add a sheer bertha decorated with strips of the bodice fabric (if I have enough) and take a little bit off on the side seams of the bodice. I had wanted to also make a new under skirt of silk but after the gown was stepped on so many times and drug on the dirty ground, I may just stay with a washable (and bleach-able) fabric.

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12/09/2014 - Wouldn't you know that as soon as I start on a major project, like making a quilt, along comes another major project, like making a ball gown. We are hosting a party that includes a dance master, gowns and a lovely historic venue. So, of course I have to have a ball gown. After all, you can't hostess a ball without one, right?

Here are some ideas that appeal to me:

I'm going for a two part dress such as the red one above. I really like the open bodice style.

The ruffled underskirt is very nice on this one. For mine, I'm thinking a white underskirt and a colored over skirt.

I especially like this red one. 

I love this painting of Lady Elizabeth Gilstrap (1822-1891) by Richard Buckner (Newark Town Council, Newark, Nottinghamshire UK) . You can see her flounced, sheer under skirt. 

Currently, I have no silk. So, a sheer flounced underskirt would be a great place to start. I have until the end of February to finish my dress. Wish me luck!

Other Inspirational Gowns:

Here is a lovely example of a sheer flounced ball gown from the MET Museum

Godey's Lady's Book, December 1859

I adore the blue one on the far left. Is that 13 rows of flouncing that I see? Here's the description: Fig. 1. we have one of those characteristic tunic dresses, introduced of late, and notable for their novelty at least. Underskirt or petticoat of white silk, covered by innumerable small flounces. Tunic and corsage of blue satin; sleeves of white silk, with a ruche of blue; berthé trimmed with point lace.

Peterson's Magazine 1860

I had been wondering if ribbon trimmed flounces would be an option... and it looks like they are. Fig. I. -Evening-dress of White Tulle, trimmed with eleven narrow tulle flounces, edged with blonde and narrow currant-colored velvet. A tunic of spotted tulle is trimmed with a broader velvet, a long wreath of velvet flowers, and a large bow of velvet ribbon. The sleeves and the berthe, which is of a heart shape, are trimmed to correspond with the skirt. Wreath of green leaves and velvet flowers. 

I really like this yellow one as well. I could use some gold silk that I have for the bodice and bows and order something that coordinates for the over skirt.

Lovely Ideas For January

I have so many projects in the works now but I really enjoy looking through the old magazines. Today's favorite was January's subscription to Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1859. There are so many wonderful items in there to take note of. Here are my favorites:

I'm in love with this woodcut that opens the number. It is titled "These Are My Jewels". I can relate to this image of a mother in the presence of her darling children. They are her most precious possessions.

Since quilting has become my new long term project, this quilting pattern was very interesting as well. I really love the heart shapes. They really don't stand out as hearts so I think they will go well, or a version of this, on my Baby Blocks Quilt.

Being a lace maker, I was immediately drawn to this crochet imitation Honiton cuff and collar pattern. I wasn't able to find the instruction for this so I will need to go back and scour the issue again later. Most likely it will read that it can be made up easily from the illustration given.

And then there comes a cute story for parents about allowing their toddlers to learn to climb the stairs. I've read it before but skipped reading it today. However, it did bring a ready smile at the recollection.

Now that is something that I didn't remember from this issue. The Self Supporting Tournure. The main difference between this and our more recent cage supports is that the steels are represented by the vertical stripes and the horizontal are tapes. This is very interesting.

A tatted trim on chemise, petticoat, and children's clothing always looks lovely. The pearl is call a picot in recent times and this arrangement is very nice. Perhaps when I am bored of stitching my quilt pieces, I could work on some tatting. After all my shuttle is kept in my sewing box and is very convenient to take when visiting.

Speaking of my sewing box. This little needle book would look lovely in there. It makes my current needle book pale in comparison.

And of course there were other little project and nice stories to read but these were the ones that I wanted to note here, sort of as a reminder to myself. Perhaps I should start a notebook or two. One for quilting patterns and one for tatting patterns that can be kept in my sewing box for reference.


I have a bit of velvet, some bugle beads, cardboard, and ribbon. Perhaps I can take some time and put together that needle book some evening this month. We will have to see.

The Story Of A Baby Blocks Quilt

First Update - 12/9/2014
So far I have only been able to log 6 hours on this quilt. It seems that starting a big project just before the holidays makes for a very slow start. I also didn't realize how long it would take to cut all of those diamonds out of newspaper and scrap fabric and then baste the two. I'm actually having a lot of fun with this project, I'm just glad that I hadn't expected to complete it until next April.

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Original Post - 11/24/2014
I am finally starting on an endeavor in quilting. I have fallen in love with a pattern and have been lent the instruction on creating it. I have some documented, period correct fabric with which to start. So, the next logical thing to do is get started.

This quilt will be a small child's quilt and done completely by hand. Here is an example of what I am going for:

The National Museum of American History also calls this pattern "Cubework" and "Boxes" and this particular quilt is made from 4" cotton diamonds. The overall measurements are 47 in. by 41 in.

I am very excited to get started on this project. I will be using the paper piecing method to construct this. It starts with creating a template and cutting out a lot of paper diamonds. Then the fun really gets going when I scour my stash scraps for pieces big enough and varied enough for this project. I'll just keep adding to this post for updates. So stay tuned.

Here's more quilting inspiration:
Follow Wrapped In Scarlet 's board Quilts on Pinterest.

A Sheer Blouse

I honestly don't know what to call the piece that I am working on. Simply put, it's a white cotton sheer blouse.... but really it's more than that. To follow are some of the images that inspired this piece.

 'He Loves Me!' John Dawson Watson - 1858 Private Collection

Photo by Albert Bisbee, OH, c. 1850s

 

 

cotton bodice printed with tiny horses c.1858

I really like how well it turned out. The fabric is 2.5 yards of cotton batiste from Needle and Thread. I haven't added any closures yet but I may try some buttonholes if I can pick up button hole twist for a reasonable price. I like the option of being able to wear this top tucked in or worn over a dress or corset cover. I've already worn this twice and love how cool and comfortable it is.

 Image credits: Craig Shipp

Improvements To My Sheer Unveiled

As much as I would have loved to make an entirely new sheer.... I really just needed to fix the one that I had.... and so I did.... I hope. I'll start with the reveal. Here is my improved sheer for summer:

Now for the explanation: Here is the original research for this dress and to follow is the dress as it looked in 2012:

* The first thing that stood out to me about the dress is that the cage was not large enough. This style dress is not intended to be worn over a work hoop of 80". A new cage style made an immediate improvement. (Read about that adventure here)

* Upon taking the dress apart, I decided to work on the sleeves. I started by hemming the under sleeves. It wasn't a huge improvement but I felt really good about it. (here's a picture of just the under-sleeves) Next I moved onto those droopy puffs. They really drove me crazy so I divided each one into two. They stand up much better now. The sleeves also got a trim. I wanted those pretty under-sleeves to show more so the over sleeve was shortened by an inch or so.

* The next item of interest is that I never trimmed the dress. It is in need of 1100+ inches of black blonde. Well, there is no way that I could find that quantity of black silk lace so I am debating other options. I was strongly leaning toward embroidered net instead... and doing the embroidery myself. This is not a difficult task just a very time consuming one..... but much less time consuming than producing the lace from scratch. Now, I've been inspired to add silk ribbon to the bottom of my frills. I'm thinking a bias plaid would look really nice. Now to find the bias plaid silk ribbon... This of course is still not finished.

* On we go to the next improvement, which was able to be made at once. I made a new separate/detached bodice lining from scratch. I love it. Here is where it stood originally:

Here is my improvement:

My new lining also has darts. The old one was attached to the sheer and made it very bulky.

*Lastly, I got rid of that white collar and remade the bodice. Thankfully I had loads of that sheer fabric left and was able to re-cut an entirely new top. The first thing that I did was to add an extra two inches to the length. I was really stuck on what style to make. For a while I was set on a pin-tucked cross-over bodice (like this) and then I thought an infant style boat-neck (like this) with a white fichu would be better. In the end I went back to my original inspiration fashion plate (here) and a great picture of Emily Todd (here). A simple V-neck was all I did. After all, there is just so much going on with the flounces and puffed sleeves that the dress really didn't need anything fancy for the bodice.

For accessories I picked up a summer hat and borrowed the blue silk sash from my daughter's fancy dress. She never wears it anyway. I also pulled a brooch from my grandmother's jewel box. I think it gives a nice contrast.

I'm also still playing with the idea of a white ruffle fichu. White next to the skin is highly recommended in the 1860s. I especially like how the white over a blue flounced dress looks in this fashion plate.

Over all I think the improvements are taking me in a very good direction. I'm very pleased with it.

Want to know what else I'm dreaming about? Check out my inspiration/research board on Pinterest:

Follow Wrapped In Scarlet's board Victorian Influence on Pinterest.

Sparsely Adorned Sun Hats

Sparsely adorned sun hats have been on my mind lately due to the fact that I just purchased a hat and have no time to embellish it. Luckily it came with a cute ribbon. Here are some examples from the period:

Preparing For A Walk, Samuel Baldwin

Lizzie Clapp, North Bridgewater Mass.

Fishing Creels For The Boys

I saw the cutest little baskets, weeks ago, and knew I wanted them for the boys. They were a bit high in price and I wanted to do some research before I purchased them so we just got them recently. They are the cutest little oblong, lidded baskets with leather straps. They make perfect junior sized creels, except for the missing hole in the lid.

We picked up one for each of the boys. I'd love it if no fish ever was put in these but I'm not holding my breath on that one, these are boys after all. My intention for getting them was for packing lunches and toys for day trips to local events.

My biggest issue was in finding period examples in painting, woodcuts, fashion plates, stories, etc. I found plenty on fishing for grown men but very little for boys. As it turns out, fishing creels have not changed much in the last several hundred years. So the shape is correct.... I'm just stuck on how common they were in miniature size.

Gardening In June

From The Kitchen and Fruit Gardener 1847

June

If the weather in this month prove dry, the growth of many esculent plants will be considerably retarded, particularly the beans and peas which are in flower, the blossoms of which fall off before arriving at maturity, and, consequently, are not succeeded by fruit. A certain degree of attention is therefore necessary to give a regular supply of water to the growing crops.

There is no work in the kitchen garden which at this time requires greater attention than the eradication of weeds; many will now begin to perfect their seeds, which, being shed on the ground, will occasion a considerable degree of labour for several years to accomplish their extirpation.

Every part of the kitchen garden should now be kept in a neat and well regulated condition; and a constant attention should be paid to the progress of all seeds committed to the ground. Those that vegetate freely should be forwarded by hoeing, thinning, and watering; and in those cases, where the seed has failed, it should be immediately resown: no time should be lost when such circumstances occur. Some crops such as beets, onions, parsnips, and some others, may be restored by transplanting them from those places where they may have come up too thick. The depredations of insects should be guarded against as much as possible, until the crops are rather advanced; for after they have formed their rough, or perfect leaves, few insects attack them, at least not so as to endanger the crop. When recourse is had to watering, it should be applied as late in the afternoon as possible, or early in the morning, but never during the middle of the day. When the ground can be kept in a moist state during the warm months of summer, the most luxuriant crops may be expected.

Beans and Peas for late crops should be sown both at the beginning and also at the end of this month. Those which are now in blossom should be examined and topped. Earth up and otherwise stir the surface of the advancing crops, as necessity may require. At this time, the crops which were formerly planted should be hoed and earthed up. Cabbage and broccoli plants which are fit should be planted out. Transplant spring sown cabbage of all sorts for autumn and winter use. Earth up the early and general crops of cabbage as they advance; the former will now be advancing to maturity, and may be forwarded in cabbaging, if the leaves be tied together with strings of matting. The general crops of onions should, towards the middle or end of the month, be cleared from weeds: this operation should be performed with a narrow hoe, which will not only destroy the weeds, but by stirring up the surface, will contribute much to the growth of the crop. The crops of potatos as they advance should be earthed up. Prick out celery plants sown in March: a slight watering to be given every other evening. Continue to sow and transplant all sorts of lettuces: give plenty of water both to the newly sown and also to the transplanted ones. Tie up to blanch the forward crops of lettuces; choosing a dry day for that purpose. A full crop of kidney beans may now be planted. Propagate by sowing, cuttings, or dividing the roots, all sorts of herbs. A small sowing of ruta baga may now be made, deferring the principal one till the middle of next month. Beets may also be sown for a late winter and spring supply; the early part of June will also be timely for the sugar beet, If not attended to the preceding month.

June Meals According To Mrs. Beeton

Plain Family Dinners for:
Sunday - 1 Salmon, trout and parsley and butter, new potatoes. 2 fillet of veal, boiled bacon, cheek, spinach, vegetables. 3 Gooseberry tart, custard.
Monday - 1 Light gravy soup, Small meat pie, minced veal with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes. 2 Raspberry and currant tart.
Tuesday - 1 Baked mackerol, potatoes. 2 Boiled leg of lamb with young carrots. 3 Lemon pudding. Wednesday - 1 Vegetable soup. 2 Calf s liver and bacon, peas hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3 Baked gooseberry pudding.
Thursday - 1 Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2 Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.
Friday - 1 Cold beef and salad, cutlets and peas. 2 Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.
Saturday - 1 Rump steak pudding, broiled beef bones and cucumber, vegetables. 2 Bread pudding.

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Sunday - 1 Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas and new potatoes. 2 Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets, fondue.
Monday - 1 Cold lamb and salad, stowed neck of veal and peas, young carrots and new potatoes. 2 Almond pudding.
Tuesday - 1 Green pea soup,2 Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas and new potatoes. 3 Baked ratafia pudding.
Wednesday - Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2 Gooseberry and rice pudding.
Thursday - 1 Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2 Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3 Bread and butter pudding.
Friday - 1 Asparagus soup. 2 Boiled beef, young carrots and new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3 College puddings.
Saturday - 1 Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and green peas. 2 Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.
 
 Things in Season
Fish - Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.
Meat - Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
Poultry - Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.
Vegetables - Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea kale, spinach, various herbs.
Fruit - Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.

Patchwork Pattern

 Here is a new patchwork (quilt) pattern found in The Lady's Friend 1864. This pattern calls for silk but there are several similar museum quilts made of cotton. I'd love to find one made of wool.

While my favorite patchwork pattern is the Baby Blocks design, this one is becoming a fast favorite as well.

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This quilting pattern was found in Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1859

Kitchen Garden Plans

Taken from The Country Gentleman 1854

"PLAN OF A KITCHEN GARDEN
Where all the work is done with the spade, and no ornamental planting is desired, the plan furnished by our correspondent ("A Pupil of the Cultivator,") is a simple and good one, and no doubt as well adapted to the intended purpose as any we could furnish. In the country, where horse labor is always at command, a great saving is effected by laying out the kitchen garden so as to admit the use of the plow, subsoiler, cultivator, and harrow.

In the above figure (Fig 1), we have endeavored to show an arrangement for this purpose, where dwarf fruits trees, currant and gooseberry bushes, &c., are planted in continuous rows across the garden; the crops of vegetables being panted between, and the whole cultivated by a horse, which turns about at the ends on the spaces or alleys, a, a. The flower garden and ornamental part occupy a strip at the centre, on each side of tho alley, b, b. If desired this part may be wholly omitted. Fig 2, shows the more common way of laying out kitchen gardens into quarters, where, it will be observed, horse labor can not be introduced."

Here we have an illustration of "the more common way of laying out kitchen gardens into quarters". Notice they are Not calling this a German Four Square Garden.

From The Gardener's Text-Book 1851

"INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS

By the phrase "Internal Arrangements", we mean the division of the garden into quarters borders beds walks etc This laying out the ground must be regulated wholly by the taste of the gardener and we therefore venture to offer only a few hints in regard thereto instead of giving precise directions As far as our opinion may be worthy of notice we should recommend regular divisions made by the square and line Such are most easily laid out and most conveniently kept in order Serpentine walks with crescent star or bean shaped beds are all very appropriate for the flower garden but they seem hardly suited for such humble tenants as cabbages potatoes and onions It is a rule to be constantly borne in mind by the proprietor of a kitchen garden that his main object be utility rather than ornament.

At least one path should be of sufficient width to admit the wagon or cart which will be required at certain seasons to bring in dung or to carry off produce Foot paths need not be over three feet wide and the alleys between the beds not over twelve or eighteen inches The border extends all around the garden and is from six to ten feet wide with a foot path in front The beds ought to be narrow say four or five feet wide such being the most easy to cultivate The numerous alleys of course occupy a great deal of room but they possess the advantages of convenience and neatness in enabling the workmen to clean or gather the crops without trampling upon the beds The principal paths might be dug out to tire depth of two feet or more and then become places of deposit for the stones removed from the quarters A thin layer of gravel tan or even common earth would render the paths hard and dry to the feet at all seasons.

In connection with the above hints a diagram or plan of our own garden may be deemed not out of place It will be found on the following page It is in the shape of a parallelogram running east and west with the entrance on the south side The border inside the fence is about eight feet wide that part facing the west smith and east is adapted for such plants as require a warm exposure and the other for such as need shelter from the mid day sun In front of the border is a foot path three feet wide Directly in the centre of the garden is the tool house beneath which is a good location for a cistern Here meet the four principal paths winch divide the large plat into four equal parts or quarters as they are generally called by English gardeners These paths are of sufficient width to admit the wagon which can turn around the tool house and return through the same path so as to avoid the necessity of having more than one entrance The quarters are of equal size so that a four year rotation of crops may readily be observed The tool house and cistern being in the centre are convenient of access from every part of the grounds Currants gooseberries raspberries and quinces are set out on the edges of the principal paths running north and south and the grape vines are trained upon the fence Dwarf fruit trees might be placed in the border where neither their roots nor their tops would be likely to occasion much injury.

 This short description will enable any intelligent reader who approves of the plan to adopt it with such modifications as his own taste may suggest.

Although in this business of laying out a garden ornament is a mere secondary consideration yet perfect regularity and neatness are attained with little extra labor and they will certainly add much to the gardener's interest in the spot. The eccentric William Cobbett said that it is quite as reasonable for a man to take pleasure in a garden which is tastefully arranged and tidily kept as it is for a woman to delight in a fine dress and he will be as anxious to preserve the neat appearance of the beds and walks as she to protect her gown from dust or grease from being faded by the sun or eaten by moths. We all take best care of that which is most pleasant to the eye."

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From The Kitchen Garden 1855

The Border
"A wide border (BB) will be carried entirely round the garden at the foot of the wall. This will serve according to aspect to raise early vegetables, to receive small seed beds of cabbages, lettuces and other things which are transplanted afterwards as well as those which require temporary pricking out such as celery, and part of it may be permanently occupied by sweet herbs, medicinal plants and other useful stock vegetables, part also may be devoted to horticultural experiments. It is convenient to have in a kitchen garden a little plot wherein to put surplus seeds and roots of flowers that are not wanted at the moment in the flower garden and the pleasure ground. Not only is it convenient to have such a supply in reserve to fall back upon in case of accident elsewhere but, as bouquets and cut flowers are always in request, these can be gathered ad libitum without fear of despoiling the parterre."

The Path
"A straight rectangular gravel path (PP) will go round the whole. Cross paths (pppp) will lead to the centre.... "

The Center
".. there should be, if not a fountain (F) with its basin to receive the water ejected, and always standing full ready for watering, at least a tank, or cistern, or shallow well, with a sufficient supply of water from some source or other."

The 4 Plots
".. there will remain in the middle, the four distinct open plots of ground (G G G G) which constitute the main body of the garden for cropping for the supply of vegetables in quantities."

Tools For Lady Gardeners

Taken from Gardening For Ladies 1843 which is mostly about the art of flower gardening. However, I have found it useful and enlightening in the way people of the time thought of the frailty of woman as well as the tools that were made to accommodate such frailty. For anyone interested in flower gardening, there is a gardening calendar at the back of the book that would also be useful.

A Lady's Gauntlet of strong leather.

Lady's Wheel-barrow

Watering Pots for Green-House Plants

Props for Climbers

Cast Iron or Zinc Tally for the Open Ground

Porcelain Tally for Pots

Tallies for trees, as in the case of an Arboretum, which is to endure for many years, are formed of iron, stone, or brick; those for herbaceous plants, of iron or wood; and those for plants, in pots kept in houses, of porcelain, wood, lead, zinc, and sometimes, though rarely, of iron. Tallies for plants kept in nurseries in pots, are commonly of wood, on which a little white paint is rubbed with the finger, and the name written with a black lead pencil; those for plants taken up and packed to be sent to a distance, are commonly of parchment, with the name written in ink, but nursery labels are formed of wood and tied to trees, or of pieces of lead stamped with numbers.... The cheapest kind of Tally is a thin strip of zinc, painted white lead, and then written with a lead pencil; and these of zinc may be had cut into proper sizes, at the zinc manufacturers.