Lovely Ideas For January

I have so many projects in the works now but I really enjoy looking through the old magazines. Today's favorite was January's subscription to Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1859. There are so many wonderful items in there to take note of. Here are my favorites:

I'm in love with this woodcut that opens the number. It is titled "These Are My Jewels". I can relate to this image of a mother in the presence of her darling children. They are her most precious possessions.

Since quilting has become my new long term project, this quilting pattern was very interesting as well. I really love the heart shapes. They really don't stand out as hearts so I think they will go well, or a version of this, on my Baby Blocks Quilt.

Being a lace maker, I was immediately drawn to this crochet imitation Honiton cuff and collar pattern. I wasn't able to find the instruction for this so I will need to go back and scour the issue again later. Most likely it will read that it can be made up easily from the illustration given.

And then there comes a cute story for parents about allowing their toddlers to learn to climb the stairs. I've read it before but skipped reading it today. However, it did bring a ready smile at the recollection.

Now that is something that I didn't remember from this issue. The Self Supporting Tournure. The main difference between this and our more recent cage supports is that the steels are represented by the vertical stripes and the horizontal are tapes. This is very interesting.

A tatted trim on chemise, petticoat, and children's clothing always looks lovely. The pearl is call a picot in recent times and this arrangement is very nice. Perhaps when I am bored of stitching my quilt pieces, I could work on some tatting. After all my shuttle is kept in my sewing box and is very convenient to take when visiting.

Speaking of my sewing box. This little needle book would look lovely in there. It makes my current needle book pale in comparison.

And of course there were other little project and nice stories to read but these were the ones that I wanted to note here, sort of as a reminder to myself. Perhaps I should start a notebook or two. One for quilting patterns and one for tatting patterns that can be kept in my sewing box for reference.


I have a bit of velvet, some bugle beads, cardboard, and ribbon. Perhaps I can take some time and put together that needle book some evening this month. We will have to see.

Boy's Brown Holland Pinafore

I have used my daughter's hand-me-down white cotton pinafores for my boys.... but now I know better. I can't say if mothers in 1860 did or didn't put white pinafores on their sons but according to the book and magazine instructions of the time, boys pinafores were to be of brown Holland.

Research on this fabric told me that I was looking for a utilitarian brown linen. Another period use was mainly furniture covers. I went with a beautiful mid-weight 100% linen that I scavenged from the thrift store for a dollar.

Here's my first attempt at a boy's brown Holland pinafore:

He really likes that he can play and get dirty and not ruin his clothes. I like that too. I've posted images of boys in pinafores here and boys with drums here. I couldn't help but add my new image to those posts as well.

Sewing List 2013

Well, it seems that I was away from historical sewing for 2013. Not many items were crossed off my list. Perhaps it would be a good idea to carry over my list into 2014. I know my girls would appreciate it. Our first event is the second Saturday in April. Wish me luck. :)


1/1/2013 - I will finish the things that I didn't get to last year as well as the new items that I want for my family for this year.

The Baby:
tatted collar - due 4/?/2013
Swimming Costume - due 6/2013

My Older Son:
Flannel Swimming Costume - Due 6/1/13
Wrapper - due 11/2013

My Younger Daughter:
Peach and Grey Long Sleeved Dress

Underclothes
Turquoise Sheer Dress - Due 6/1/13
Hat to match turquoise dress - Due 6/1/13
poplin dress

sleeves and collar for poplin dress
purple wool paletote - due 4/2013
cage

Older Daughter:
Wrapper - due 11/2013
Green Sheer - Due 6/1/13
Hat to match Green Sheer - Due 6/1/13
Underclothes
sheer body, wool/silk skirt, blue silk belt

gold silk hat - due 4/2013
blue wool paletote - due 4/2013

For Me:
Tan Wool Dress w/ Burgundy Trim
Blue Sheer, Drawn Bonnet - Due 6/1/13
Rework my Sheer, Flounced Dress Body - Due 6/1/13
Underclothes
Ball Gown - Due 11/1/13 (in my dreams but not really)
Dress cap
Kid gloves
110" cage
Fashion corset
Add more trimmings to my gold silk bonnet - done 6/11/2013

My Husband:
Silk Vest - Due 11/1/13
Cravat - Due 11/1/13

My Mother:
Underpinnings
Corset
Dress
Bonnet
Shawl

Extras:
Needle Books
Draw String Bags
Quilt top - Due 8/1/13

Starting On Winter Wear

It's still very nice outside but the cold weather will be here before too long so I think that I should start on some warm garments for my children. After the cold temperatures have arrived is not the best time to start on these things. I'd rather be well on the way with only a few finishing touches when Old Man Winter starts blowing in my door.

I am still planning on finishing my tan and burgundy dress for use at the Remembrance Day Parade, November 23rd in Gettysburg. My bonnet is acceptable as it is now and I only have a few touches to add to the jacket that I made last year. Mostly, I would like to make crochet closures for down the front of it.

I love lists so here goes:

~ crochet closures and maybe some trim for my blue jacket
~ red wool petticoats for myself and my older daughter
~ long sleeve tunic and belt for my son
~ short button pants for my younger son
~ pants for my older son
~ wool gaiters for everyone
~ traveling bags for myself and my older daughter
~ finally finish the wrapper for my younger daughter
~ gloves

Here's my list for the year. So far I am not on schedule but it's all fun anyway.

Footed Night Dress

I just love this little footed night dress found in Godey's 1858. This is such a cute project that I think I will add it to my fall/winter projects for this year.

Bags For Boys

I have been wanting to make a bag for each of my boys. They would benefit greatly by having a bag of their own to carry small toys and snacks. I will collect images on this topic and record them in this post.

Woodcut entitled Blessed Be The Peacemakers from Godey's 1858

 

This appears to be a cross body type bag with perhaps a loaf of bread in it.

Wool Sale

Fashion Fabrics Club.com has done it again. They are having a wool sale until 7/22/2013. Some are for $4.95 and others for $7.95. Here are the few that I narrowed my very large wish list down to.

 Brown Plaid Wool Suiting

 

Dark Brown and Black Plaid Wool Suiting
This tropical weight fabric from Burlington is perfect for suits, slacks and dresses
100% Wool, 64" wide, Hand wash cold or dry clean
$25.00/yd. on sale for $4.95/yd.

 

4.5 yards of this will look wonderful as a winter dress for my teenage daughter. She wants a natural bodice and bishop sleeves

 

Tan Plaid Wool Flannel

 

Tan Plaid Wool Flannel
This light/medium weight fabric has a tan, brown, steel blue, charcoal and cream plaid design
The brushed surface makes this wool soft.
Perfect for suits, dresses and slacks
100% Wool, 60" wide, Hand wash cold or dry clean
$25.00/yd. on sale for $7.95

 

One yard will make an adorable boys suit for my toddler son.

 

 Light Maize Check Wool Crepe

 

Light Maize with Ivory Windowpane Check
Wool Crepe Suiting Fabric Suitable for Slacks, Suits and Jackets
100% Wool, 59" wide, Hand Wash Cold or Dry Clean
$22.00/yd. on sale for $7.95

 

I ordered enough to make a fringed shawl. Folded on the diagonal this should be very nice. 

 

 

Bright Red Wool Flannel

 

Bright Red Wool Flannel
This light/medium weight fabric has a soft, brushed surface. Perfect for suits, dresses and slacks
100% Wool, 60" wide, Hand wash cold or dry clean
$25.00/yd. on sale for $7.95

 

Yeah!!! We will have nice warm wool petticoats this winter to keep our legs warm.

 

 

 

Children's Fashion Plates from La Mode Illustree 1862

 

The girl to the left has a dress that buttons all the way down and is cut in the tableau style and she wears a summer hat of straw.

 

The little fellow in the center is still in dresses. I love the asymmetrical style of the dress, the square neckline and the little tie. I'd love to find that style of hat for my boys.

 

The girl on the right is a teenager, shown by the length of her dress. I really like her silk waist.

 

Of course I want to mention that great chair. Take note of the spiral carved legs and back and the chenille fringe.

 

 

Don't you just love the pintucks on this girl's top? The yellow kids gloves catch my eye as well.

 

The table in this color fashion plate looks just like one that we have. It used to set in my living room. I think that I'll have to unpack it and put it in a more conspicuous place in the "parlor".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I really love this boys suite. His hair style is quite nice as well.

 

 

 

The first thing that I see in this fashion plate is the puppet theatre! I will be making one of these for the kids this winter.

Health and Beauty: Woman and Her Clothing 1864

Here is a great book that I came across on Google Books called Health and Beauty or Woman and Her Clothes. I haven't had a chance to read the entire thing, so I am posting it here so I can come back to it later. I hope you enjoy it also.

Fabrics for Mid-century Costuming

Appropriate Silks

• Broadcloth
• Brocades (some)
• Faille
• Gauze (overskirts & shawls)
• Habotai or China (bonnets & shawls)
• Jacquard (some)
• Organza (overskirts)
• Ottoman
• Pongee
• Shantung (not slubby)
• Taffeta (also good for shawls)
• Twill (for lining and bonnets)

Appropriate Wools

• Suiting (light, dress weight)
• Flannel
• Tropical Weight (dresses)

Appropriate Cottons

• Pique (yellow or white)
• Voille
• Lawn
• Batiste
• Poplin - Checks and Stripes
• Damask - White for tablecloths and napkins

St. Valentine's Day Gift Planning

Now that the excitement of Christmas and New Years is over, it's time to start sewing again. I dated my list this year so I know exactly what I need to do first. My first due date is St. Valentine's Day. At our house this is a gift giving holiday, so let's get started making gifts!

 My favorite gift for this Valentine's Day will be to give my toddler son a tatted collar. Here is the pattern that I plan to use:

This collar design is from The Lady's Companion 1852 and is meant for a lady. However, I think that it would look adorable on my son, as well as taking much less time to make it up, in his petite size. The bars in this pattern are done with a needle.

For my older daughter, I plan to make a barrel bag, or travel bag. She has asked for one and I hadn't had time to make it for her for Christmas, so now it would be a wonderful surprise. I have some more of that gorgeous navy blue wool. Now I just need to find a nice cotton print for lining, and some wide twill tape for the handles.

For my younger daughter, I have planned the simplest gift to give. It should work up so quickly. She shall have a thread case for her embroidery floss. The pattern is in The Workwoman's Guide 1840. She loves embroidery and has every color, so I may end up making her several. The following illustration is one suggested in Godey's Magazine. It's very lovely, don't you think?

My older son didn't get the drum that I wanted to make for him from a wooden cheese box. Some how I just ran out of time and energy for that project. Well, after a short rest, I'm ready to start the project list sprint again.

And I can't forget about making more hand made Victorian Valentine cards. We had so much fun making them last year, we have to do it again!!

I hope you wish me luck in accomplishing my projects, and do tell me about the ones that you have planned. Post a link to your website, blog or facebook so I can see what you've been working on.

Boys Cap In Crochet

From Peterson's Magazine 1862

Boy's Cap In Plain Crochet

Materials - 1/4 oz. brown double zephyr; 1/2 oz. white double zephyr; 1/4 oz Flosselle silk, black; coarse cotton cord, brown or black.
Crochet over the cord with the brown wool, in plain crochet, beginning with six or eight stitches. Widen enough to keep the work flat, until you have 25 rows for the top of crown; be sure to have 200 stitches on the 25th row of the crown, it must measure 16 1/2 centimeters across the top.
The next row begins the side of the cap. Work 23 rows, and only widen 11 stitches in the whole side; turn the cap so as to begin on the wrong side, for the rim, which should turn up all round.

 1st Row - Brown
 2nd Row - White
 3rd Row - White, widen to 224 stitches
 4th Row - White widen 26 times in the whole row. Make 12 stitches of white and 2 of black floss silk. Repeat this 18 times around the cap.
 5th Row - Make 1 white stitch over the last black one of 4th row, and then 2 black ones, to form the pattern
 6th Row - Same as 5th row, and exactly over it
 7th Row - Like the 4th row.
 8th, 9th and 10th Rows - All white
 11th - Row Like the 4th and 7th only observing to make the black spots come in the center, or between those of the lower row
 12th, 13th and 14th Row - Like the 8th, 9th and 10th

Finish with 3 rows of white, 1 row of black silk; the last row of brown zephyr; black zephyr may be substituted for the spots if the silk cannot conveniently be procured.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 

From The Illustrated Girl's Own Treasury

TO WORK OVER CORD Frequently done in making mats, baskets &c. Hold the cord along the top of the work, insert the hook as usual and bring out the loop of wool under the cord. Finish the stitch over the cord.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

To change the size of the cap, measure around the top of the child's head. This gives you the circumference. To find the diameter, divide the circumference by 3.14. Use this new number in place of the 16 1/2 centimeters in the pattern. You will then disregard the number of stitches needed in the 25th row.

Circumference divided by 3.14 = Diameter.

 

For example: If the circumference is 19 1/2". 19 1/2 divided by 3.14 is 6.21. Rounding up, I will use 6 1/4" as my new circumference or measurement "across the top".

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

  

"Children's Fashions" illustrations from the same month

 

New Fabrics On The Way

There are new fabrics on the way to my house and my sewing list for next year has officially begun. Fashion Fabric Club.com had a sale on cotton $1.99, shirting and voile $2.50, wools and silks $5.00. Here are the great fabrics that I was able to pick up, with the help of my Mom.

"Thanks Mom for the early Christmas present!!!!"

OK, back to the fabrics:

The boys will have matching tunics from this navy print cotton. It is such an interesting, and not at all feminine, print. I may even be able to do something on the bias, perhaps the belts.

 

My older daughter chose this green voile for a nice sheer. She is so good with her clothes that I know it will last for several summers. I can see puffed, short sleeves and low neckline, perhaps a bonnet or hat to match.

 

2/8/2013 Update - Here is what's happening with this green sheer.

 

For my younger daughter, we chose a peach and grey shirting. It's nice and light but still sturdier than a sheer fabric. Again, I can see short, puffed sleeves and maybe some self fabric ruffles along the hemline.

 

11/13/2012 Update - I just picked up some semi-sheer cotton voile in turquoise (here) for my younger daughter so she has requested that this fabric be made into a long, bishop sleeved dress for next fall.

 

I was able to grab this beautiful sterling grey dress weight wool. Now to find inspiration for the dress.

 

9/5/2012 Update - Here is the post discussing my plans for this grey wool

 

 

And the bonus piece is this beautiful yard of dark navy silk organza. I have no idea what will be made from it, but I'm sure an idea will come to me sooner rather than later. :)

 

12/1/2012 Update - This piece of navy organza was added to my bonnet. Read the post here.

I just love fabric sales!!! Their current sale is on wool......

9/8/12 Update - Received the fabric in the mail today. I was surprised at how long it took FedEx to get it to me, but that had nothing to do with Fashion Fabric Club. It is all just perfect!!!! The best part is that I have more than the yardage I purchased. Each piece is just a bit larger than I ordered, except for the wool; I have a whole extra yard of that. I highly recommend this company!!!!