New Fabric On The Way

My husband had so much fun at the Winter Ball in Gettysburg that he is finally open to the idea of dressing up and accompanying us to events.... such as other balls and perhaps a baseball game this summer. He currently has nothing in the way of historical clothing. So, of course it was time to go shopping. I happened to see some great fabrics at fashionfabricsclub.com and made my order.


I am a little hesitant because the last order I placed with them took over two weeks to get to me. I'm hoping that I get my fabric sooner than that. Most of the fabric I purchased with him in mind, other items in the order were just too good to pass up.




Tan & Brown Plaid Medium Weight Linen



I love plaid. This can be a sack coat or pair of pants. If my husband doesn't like it, I do have two boys that could benefit from new suits.



Solid Cocoa Brown Lightweight Linen



Here is an example of a deal too good to pass up. I had originally picked this for part of my husband's summer picnic suit but now I am thinking that it will be too thin. I may be able to use it with a lining but if it's unusable for him, we will just call it brown Holland and make boy's aprons.



Dusty Plum & Ivory Plaid Light Weight Linen



I did mention that I like plaids, right? This cute plaid is for the vest or waistcoat front. It will be lined with white cotton twill, the same will be used for the vest back. I really can't see using all of this for just one vest so I am hoping that I can get a mini vest too, for one of my boys.



Chestnut Brown Wool Twill Suiting



This is another piece that I have high hopes for but I'm not really sure about the weave. I am wanting to make pants from this but I love browns and this would go beautifully in my modern sewing. If my husband bales on the idea of dressing up before the piece gets cut.... it's all mine.



Antique Gold Plaid Wool Suiting



I love the colors in this piece. It has antique gold, blue, green, burgundy and white in it, according to the description. I'll have to inspect it more closely once it have it in hand, just to make sure. This is a light to medium wool and I'm hoping that it will make a nice vest front. The back will be brown polished cotton. There was only one yard of this available. I would have loved to get a long length for a bigger project. Again, if the weight or weave isn't correct, this will be joining my modern fabric projects list.

Natural Canvas 10 oz

This is just a fun piece. I've been wanting to try my hand at making a painted floor cloth and now I can. I am also playing with the idea of making my own tent for our trip to the National 19th Century Base Ball Festival in July. I'll want to see how well I can sew the hem on my machine before I take on the task of sewing an entire tent. I'll probably play with grommets as well.

Here are some inspirational images to keep me going:

Fishing Creels For The Boys

I saw the cutest little baskets, weeks ago, and knew I wanted them for the boys. They were a bit high in price and I wanted to do some research before I purchased them so we just got them recently. They are the cutest little oblong, lidded baskets with leather straps. They make perfect junior sized creels, except for the missing hole in the lid.

We picked up one for each of the boys. I'd love it if no fish ever was put in these but I'm not holding my breath on that one, these are boys after all. My intention for getting them was for packing lunches and toys for day trips to local events.

My biggest issue was in finding period examples in painting, woodcuts, fashion plates, stories, etc. I found plenty on fishing for grown men but very little for boys. As it turns out, fishing creels have not changed much in the last several hundred years. So the shape is correct.... I'm just stuck on how common they were in miniature size.

Boy's Brown Holland Pinafore

I have used my daughter's hand-me-down white cotton pinafores for my boys.... but now I know better. I can't say if mothers in 1860 did or didn't put white pinafores on their sons but according to the book and magazine instructions of the time, boys pinafores were to be of brown Holland.

Research on this fabric told me that I was looking for a utilitarian brown linen. Another period use was mainly furniture covers. I went with a beautiful mid-weight 100% linen that I scavenged from the thrift store for a dollar.

Here's my first attempt at a boy's brown Holland pinafore:

He really likes that he can play and get dirty and not ruin his clothes. I like that too. I've posted images of boys in pinafores here and boys with drums here. I couldn't help but add my new image to those posts as well.

Sewing List 2013

Well, it seems that I was away from historical sewing for 2013. Not many items were crossed off my list. Perhaps it would be a good idea to carry over my list into 2014. I know my girls would appreciate it. Our first event is the second Saturday in April. Wish me luck. :)


1/1/2013 - I will finish the things that I didn't get to last year as well as the new items that I want for my family for this year.

The Baby:
tatted collar - due 4/?/2013
Swimming Costume - due 6/2013

My Older Son:
Flannel Swimming Costume - Due 6/1/13
Wrapper - due 11/2013

My Younger Daughter:
Peach and Grey Long Sleeved Dress

Underclothes
Turquoise Sheer Dress - Due 6/1/13
Hat to match turquoise dress - Due 6/1/13
poplin dress

sleeves and collar for poplin dress
purple wool paletote - due 4/2013
cage

Older Daughter:
Wrapper - due 11/2013
Green Sheer - Due 6/1/13
Hat to match Green Sheer - Due 6/1/13
Underclothes
sheer body, wool/silk skirt, blue silk belt

gold silk hat - due 4/2013
blue wool paletote - due 4/2013

For Me:
Tan Wool Dress w/ Burgundy Trim
Blue Sheer, Drawn Bonnet - Due 6/1/13
Rework my Sheer, Flounced Dress Body - Due 6/1/13
Underclothes
Ball Gown - Due 11/1/13 (in my dreams but not really)
Dress cap
Kid gloves
110" cage
Fashion corset
Add more trimmings to my gold silk bonnet - done 6/11/2013

My Husband:
Silk Vest - Due 11/1/13
Cravat - Due 11/1/13

My Mother:
Underpinnings
Corset
Dress
Bonnet
Shawl

Extras:
Needle Books
Draw String Bags
Quilt top - Due 8/1/13

Starting On Winter Wear

It's still very nice outside but the cold weather will be here before too long so I think that I should start on some warm garments for my children. After the cold temperatures have arrived is not the best time to start on these things. I'd rather be well on the way with only a few finishing touches when Old Man Winter starts blowing in my door.

I am still planning on finishing my tan and burgundy dress for use at the Remembrance Day Parade, November 23rd in Gettysburg. My bonnet is acceptable as it is now and I only have a few touches to add to the jacket that I made last year. Mostly, I would like to make crochet closures for down the front of it.

I love lists so here goes:

~ crochet closures and maybe some trim for my blue jacket
~ red wool petticoats for myself and my older daughter
~ long sleeve tunic and belt for my son
~ short button pants for my younger son
~ pants for my older son
~ wool gaiters for everyone
~ traveling bags for myself and my older daughter
~ finally finish the wrapper for my younger daughter
~ gloves

Here's my list for the year. So far I am not on schedule but it's all fun anyway.

Footed Night Dress

I just love this little footed night dress found in Godey's 1858. This is such a cute project that I think I will add it to my fall/winter projects for this year.

Bags For Boys

I have been wanting to make a bag for each of my boys. They would benefit greatly by having a bag of their own to carry small toys and snacks. I will collect images on this topic and record them in this post.

Woodcut entitled Blessed Be The Peacemakers from Godey's 1858

 

This appears to be a cross body type bag with perhaps a loaf of bread in it.

A Balloon?

Is that a balloon that I see? Could it be? The description simply describes it this way: "The lad, edifying his sister and cousin with an explanation of the buoyancy of his new toy, has jacket and trousers of black kerseymere..."

From Godey's 1858

Wool Sale

Fashion Fabrics Club.com has done it again. They are having a wool sale until 7/22/2013. Some are for $4.95 and others for $7.95. Here are the few that I narrowed my very large wish list down to.

 Brown Plaid Wool Suiting

 

Dark Brown and Black Plaid Wool Suiting
This tropical weight fabric from Burlington is perfect for suits, slacks and dresses
100% Wool, 64" wide, Hand wash cold or dry clean
$25.00/yd. on sale for $4.95/yd.

 

4.5 yards of this will look wonderful as a winter dress for my teenage daughter. She wants a natural bodice and bishop sleeves

 

Tan Plaid Wool Flannel

 

Tan Plaid Wool Flannel
This light/medium weight fabric has a tan, brown, steel blue, charcoal and cream plaid design
The brushed surface makes this wool soft.
Perfect for suits, dresses and slacks
100% Wool, 60" wide, Hand wash cold or dry clean
$25.00/yd. on sale for $7.95

 

One yard will make an adorable boys suit for my toddler son.

 

 Light Maize Check Wool Crepe

 

Light Maize with Ivory Windowpane Check
Wool Crepe Suiting Fabric Suitable for Slacks, Suits and Jackets
100% Wool, 59" wide, Hand Wash Cold or Dry Clean
$22.00/yd. on sale for $7.95

 

I ordered enough to make a fringed shawl. Folded on the diagonal this should be very nice. 

 

 

Bright Red Wool Flannel

 

Bright Red Wool Flannel
This light/medium weight fabric has a soft, brushed surface. Perfect for suits, dresses and slacks
100% Wool, 60" wide, Hand wash cold or dry clean
$25.00/yd. on sale for $7.95

 

Yeah!!! We will have nice warm wool petticoats this winter to keep our legs warm.

 

 

 

Hair Handkerchiefs

I have read stories in period magazines where ladies would cover their hair with old silk handkerchiefs while they were cleaning the house. I had not given much thought to it until my daughter wanted to do the same. That is, wear a handkerchief on her hair, not clean the house. Here is an example of a working class/rural girl with a handkerchief on her head. She is sitting by water with a little boy who is fishing. They have a picnic basket with them.

Woodcut entitled The Fishing Party from Godey's 1858

AGRAFE AU CROCHET.

AGRAFE AU CROCHET.

 

- ‘1 jeté , - diminution. - Recommencez quatre fois depuis " ; - une a l'endroit, -1 jeté, - diminution , - 5 à l'endroit, - 1 jeté, - diminution, - une à l'endroit, 1 jeté, - diminution , -une à l'endroit.

27° tour. -Une levée, - 2 à l'endroit; - * 1 jeté, - diminution. -- Recommencez quatre fois depuis ‘; - une a l'endroit, -- 1 jeté, - une a l'endroit, - 1 jeté , - diminution,- 2 a l'endroit, -diminution , -_ 1 jeté, - diminution , - une a‘l'endroit , - 1 jeté, -- 3 à l'endroit.

On répète ces tours depuis le 5° tour. jusqu'à ce que l'on ait la longueur voulue, puis on encadre les pleins, en passant autour, en reprises, du fil plat, ainsi que l'indique le dessin.

 

I have no idea what the above says. It's all that I could come up with from La Mode Illustree. Thankfully a dear friend from TheSewingAcademy.org was able to translate the pattern from the German version found in Der Bazar, January 1863. Here is what she came up with:

 

Crocheted Agrafe
see figure 51.
Materials: very strong (or heavy) black Cordonnet(?) silk, coated (or annealed?) thin florists wire, some open(?) silk, twisted silk cord, a Bikeschen(?) or olive(?) button.

 

The full-size figure of the agrafe shows clearly that both of the main portions are formed by a twig with a 5 petaled flower and the accompanying leaves. The size and shape of each individual crochet piece, as well as the assembly of the pieces, can also be gleaned from the figure.

All flower and leaf pieces are made with very strong (see above) black Cordonnet(see above) Silk and are made from the middle out, spiraled like a snail, in the round, using firm(or tight) chain stitches (Don't know if this means a particular stitch). For the oval pieces, a center vein is made by hooking 5-7 stitches, and, depending on the required size of the piece being made, 2, 4, or 6 rows are crocheted around this beginning.

 

On every row, add a few stitches on both ends of the vein, so that an oval surface forms.

 

For the round pieces, cast on (hook) 3-4 stitches, close them into rings, and crochet around them in a snail-like spiral while continually adding stitches, until a round flat surface of the required size is formed.

 

To create a toothed leaf, make a starting chain like for the oval leaves, and then crochet around it. Work until about the middle of one of the long sides, thereupon 3 L.(?), turn the piece and crochet back over the first two of the 3 L.(?) and the most recently worked stitches, until the beginning of the row; from here make a back and forth row on the other side in the same way.

 

All of the individual crocheted pieces form the top, right side, using the wrong sides of the individual pieces. Organize and assemble the pieces as the figure shows. The stem is made of black cord, which gets tightly wrapped with open(?) black silk, and a thin piece of florist's wire is wrapped with it. The wire allows the stems to be bent.

 

The crocheted pieces are sewn firmly to the stems. The end of the stem is hidden under one of the small oval crocheted pieces, which also hides the end of the loop made of twisted silk cord. One of the two completed agrafe pieces has a "olive" or "Bikeschen" button on the outside tip of the loop.

 

(You can visit Sarah's blog here)

Children - Der Bazar 1862

 

There were other images of children in this issue of Der Bazar but I really like this one, mostly because I have not seen it in other magazines of the time. It would be nice to read German so I could see what the descriptions are.

 

What do you suppose the girls, with bowls, are doing?

Monroe Jacket and Coat Patterns

Man's Monroe Coat

 

Monroe & Co., 507 Broadway, have always a choice selection the best class of clothing. It must be remembered that they make to order all styles of gentlemen's clothing, uniforms. &c. The fashion cut represents a business coat made of English silk mixture. The collar is plain, and is trimmed with half-inch wide braid, flat on the edge. It is single-breasted, and is of a dark brown color. It is both a handsome and a serviceable garment.

 

Boy's Monroe Jacket

 



The boys' fashion cut represents the jacket for fall and winter. It is intended for warmth and comfort, and is made double-breasted. The material is Melton mixture, purple, orange and gray; the edges are bound with three-eighths of an inch wide rich twist, with buttons blending in color. This jacket is adapted to boys from six to twelve years of age, and will be found not only handsome but comfortable and durable

Children's Fashion Plates from La Mode Illustree 1862

 

The girl to the left has a dress that buttons all the way down and is cut in the tableau style and she wears a summer hat of straw.

 

The little fellow in the center is still in dresses. I love the asymmetrical style of the dress, the square neckline and the little tie. I'd love to find that style of hat for my boys.

 

The girl on the right is a teenager, shown by the length of her dress. I really like her silk waist.

 

Of course I want to mention that great chair. Take note of the spiral carved legs and back and the chenille fringe.

 

 

Don't you just love the pintucks on this girl's top? The yellow kids gloves catch my eye as well.

 

The table in this color fashion plate looks just like one that we have. It used to set in my living room. I think that I'll have to unpack it and put it in a more conspicuous place in the "parlor".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I really love this boys suite. His hair style is quite nice as well.

 

 

 

The first thing that I see in this fashion plate is the puppet theatre! I will be making one of these for the kids this winter.

I've Been Away

.... from historic sewing.

The re-enacting season started without me this year. I have been busy sewing modern clothes for the last several months. It's been very new and exciting for me. Feel free to jump over to my modern sewing blog (here) and see what's been going on.

Starting in June I will be in a historic sewing frenzy. I will be making up as much as I can. There are dresses (for my girls and I) and tunics (for the boys) that I have been planning and have fabric for. So far the list is as follows:

My tan and burgundy dress
Younger daughter's turquoise sheer dress
Younger daughter's cotton poplin dress

Younger daughter's peach and grey dress

Older daughter's green sheer dress
Older daughter's wool/silk skirt w/ blue silk bretelles and skirt ribbons

Older daughter's green silk ball gown
Paletotes  for both girls
Older son's swimming costume
Younger son's long sleeved tunic with belt
misc. aprons, sunhats and such from the scraps

Wow, that's a lot of sewing for the next two months. I think that I can do it. It takes 3 days to make an unadorned dress so I can make 2 dresses a week.. maybe. I will have to take off the weekends to give my eyes and fingers a rest. Wish me luck.

Here's my sewing list for 2013

 

8/12/2013 Update - As you can see, I didn't complete my list during June and July. Oh well, I'll just have to keep working on it. I may skip finishing the sheer dresses and just move on to winter items.

Fabrics for Mid-century Costuming

Appropriate Silks

• Broadcloth
• Brocades (some)
• Faille
• Gauze (overskirts & shawls)
• Habotai or China (bonnets & shawls)
• Jacquard (some)
• Organza (overskirts)
• Ottoman
• Pongee
• Shantung (not slubby)
• Taffeta (also good for shawls)
• Twill (for lining and bonnets)

Appropriate Wools

• Suiting (light, dress weight)
• Flannel
• Tropical Weight (dresses)

Appropriate Cottons

• Pique (yellow or white)
• Voille
• Lawn
• Batiste
• Poplin - Checks and Stripes
• Damask - White for tablecloths and napkins

St. Valentine's Day Gift Planning

Now that the excitement of Christmas and New Years is over, it's time to start sewing again. I dated my list this year so I know exactly what I need to do first. My first due date is St. Valentine's Day. At our house this is a gift giving holiday, so let's get started making gifts!

 My favorite gift for this Valentine's Day will be to give my toddler son a tatted collar. Here is the pattern that I plan to use:

This collar design is from The Lady's Companion 1852 and is meant for a lady. However, I think that it would look adorable on my son, as well as taking much less time to make it up, in his petite size. The bars in this pattern are done with a needle.

For my older daughter, I plan to make a barrel bag, or travel bag. She has asked for one and I hadn't had time to make it for her for Christmas, so now it would be a wonderful surprise. I have some more of that gorgeous navy blue wool. Now I just need to find a nice cotton print for lining, and some wide twill tape for the handles.

For my younger daughter, I have planned the simplest gift to give. It should work up so quickly. She shall have a thread case for her embroidery floss. The pattern is in The Workwoman's Guide 1840. She loves embroidery and has every color, so I may end up making her several. The following illustration is one suggested in Godey's Magazine. It's very lovely, don't you think?

My older son didn't get the drum that I wanted to make for him from a wooden cheese box. Some how I just ran out of time and energy for that project. Well, after a short rest, I'm ready to start the project list sprint again.

And I can't forget about making more hand made Victorian Valentine cards. We had so much fun making them last year, we have to do it again!!

I hope you wish me luck in accomplishing my projects, and do tell me about the ones that you have planned. Post a link to your website, blog or facebook so I can see what you've been working on.

Things To Finish 2012:

I will never get any of this done if I never get started......

I have been really slow getting my list in order. I seem to have the bad habit of almost finishing things. My list is mostly just finishing touches and making the items that I purchased fabric for. Go figure.

For Me:

Work Corset -  Done 8/1.
** Fashion Corset - made duct tape pattern 9/3. **
2 Petticoats - Done 5/15
Cotton Dress - started 6/3, finished 6/6. Done.
Collar and Cuffs for Cotton Dress - Done 6/7

Cotton Sheer Dress - 5/21 bodice is done. 5/31 underskirt is done, adding flounces. Over skirt is done. Hate the bodice, need to remake it. Done 8/7.
Collar and Sleeves for Sheer - The sleeves will be tube sleeves with 2 or 3 ruffles at the bottom. Done 8/10.

** Wool Dress - 7/12 decided on a style. 7/25 decided on trim, burgundy wool. **
** Undersleeves & Collar - for wool dress **
Brown Mantle (need silk lining) - purchased lining but will be using it for my bonnet instead. get more silk. Will use this wool as a shawl. Done 8/4.
Bonnet - 4/12 purchased gold/tan silk. Started 7/6. Finished covering 7/16. Added English netting 8/13, need to make paper roses - red, pink, white. Done

** Bonnet - Added sheer, drawn bonnet to match my sheer dress 6/2. Made base 8/5. To finish in the spring 2013 **
Other Accessories:
        White Silk Belts
        White Silk Neck Ribbon - done
        Jewelry - Have amber eyeball agate ear drops 4/20. Have green tree agate and jade bracelet 5/19.
        ** Dress Cap - Decided on a dotted Swiss cap from Peterson's 1860. Get dotted Swiss from Needle and Thread $12/yard **

For Older Daughter:
Night Dress - Daughter to make this herself. crossed off list.
** Hat - Started on 3/1. 3/9 Finished the buckram hat, just need to add batting and silk. 4/12 purchased blue silk. **
Blue Dress - Finish box pleats around the bottom of the dress. 3/3 two of the six bias strips are hemmed. Remade the sleeves, moved the box pleating and made a belt 7/28. Added the box pleating across the top of the body. Done, she doesn't want the box pleating around the bottom.
Hood - to match her mantle

Under sleeves - 5/23 stitched plackets and gathered sleeves. Not needed. Remade the sleeves.
** Bosom friend -  To be made for fall of 2013**
** Paletote - from the blue wool. To be finished for Easter 2013 **
** New Skirt and semi-sheer body with blue silk bretelles - added 6/? with purchase of wool/silk fabric. To be finished for Easter 2013 **

For Younger Daughter:
Wrapper - need to quilt back and sew seams.
"Sprinkles dress" - trim with brown floss braid. Decided not to add the trim
** Poplin dress - to be finished for Easter 2013 **
** Sleeves & Collar - for the poplin dress. to be finished for Easter 2013 **
Mantle -  trim with boa. 3/9 Finished adding the boa. Done
Hood  - done

Brown ribbon bretelles - Marked off the list without completing.
** Paletote - from lavender wool. to be finished for Easter 2013 **
** Cage - She will need a cage to go under her poplin dress. to be finished for Easter 2013 **
Petticoats - done
Pill Box Hat - to match her mantle. finished 11/13

For Older Son:
Cap - Crochet wool cap. done 11/18
** Belt - for his coat. Will finish by fall 2013 **
Summer Tunic - Added this on 5/23. Am scrapping my black and tan dress fabric to make the boys matching tunics. Done 9/5.

For Younger Son:
Shoes - Purchased 8/10
Yellow pique jacket and skirt - Marked off the list without completing.
Sheer dress - Marked off the list without completing.
Summer Tunic - Added this on 5/23. Am scrapping my black and tan dress fabric to make the boys matching tunics. Started on 8/28. Finished 8/30.

Cap - decided on a crochet wool and silk cap 8/12. have fingering wool. Done
Coat - added 9/9. done 9/20

** Long sleeved tunic - of blue shirting, lined, to math his brother's. added 9/20. Will make for Fall 2013 **

Today starts the first full week of December and I will call an official close to this list. With the exception of my younger daughter's wrapper, that will be finished and given as a Christmas present. We have attended our final event for the year and will now concentrate on Christmas gifts, leaving no time in the year 2012 to finish any other items above. All items marked with ** will begin the list for 2013..... and start the sewing frenzy all over again.

I sincerely hope that you got majority of your 2012 sewing list completed and can sit back and admire your accomplishments. Please do share your lists with me. I would love to see your work.

With all sincerity,
Jessica Dean