Lovely Ideas For January

I have so many projects in the works now but I really enjoy looking through the old magazines. Today's favorite was January's subscription to Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1859. There are so many wonderful items in there to take note of. Here are my favorites:

I'm in love with this woodcut that opens the number. It is titled "These Are My Jewels". I can relate to this image of a mother in the presence of her darling children. They are her most precious possessions.

Since quilting has become my new long term project, this quilting pattern was very interesting as well. I really love the heart shapes. They really don't stand out as hearts so I think they will go well, or a version of this, on my Baby Blocks Quilt.

Being a lace maker, I was immediately drawn to this crochet imitation Honiton cuff and collar pattern. I wasn't able to find the instruction for this so I will need to go back and scour the issue again later. Most likely it will read that it can be made up easily from the illustration given.

And then there comes a cute story for parents about allowing their toddlers to learn to climb the stairs. I've read it before but skipped reading it today. However, it did bring a ready smile at the recollection.

Now that is something that I didn't remember from this issue. The Self Supporting Tournure. The main difference between this and our more recent cage supports is that the steels are represented by the vertical stripes and the horizontal are tapes. This is very interesting.

A tatted trim on chemise, petticoat, and children's clothing always looks lovely. The pearl is call a picot in recent times and this arrangement is very nice. Perhaps when I am bored of stitching my quilt pieces, I could work on some tatting. After all my shuttle is kept in my sewing box and is very convenient to take when visiting.

Speaking of my sewing box. This little needle book would look lovely in there. It makes my current needle book pale in comparison.

And of course there were other little project and nice stories to read but these were the ones that I wanted to note here, sort of as a reminder to myself. Perhaps I should start a notebook or two. One for quilting patterns and one for tatting patterns that can be kept in my sewing box for reference.


I have a bit of velvet, some bugle beads, cardboard, and ribbon. Perhaps I can take some time and put together that needle book some evening this month. We will have to see.

Improvements To My Sheer Unveiled

As much as I would have loved to make an entirely new sheer.... I really just needed to fix the one that I had.... and so I did.... I hope. I'll start with the reveal. Here is my improved sheer for summer:

Now for the explanation: Here is the original research for this dress and to follow is the dress as it looked in 2012:

* The first thing that stood out to me about the dress is that the cage was not large enough. This style dress is not intended to be worn over a work hoop of 80". A new cage style made an immediate improvement. (Read about that adventure here)

* Upon taking the dress apart, I decided to work on the sleeves. I started by hemming the under sleeves. It wasn't a huge improvement but I felt really good about it. (here's a picture of just the under-sleeves) Next I moved onto those droopy puffs. They really drove me crazy so I divided each one into two. They stand up much better now. The sleeves also got a trim. I wanted those pretty under-sleeves to show more so the over sleeve was shortened by an inch or so.

* The next item of interest is that I never trimmed the dress. It is in need of 1100+ inches of black blonde. Well, there is no way that I could find that quantity of black silk lace so I am debating other options. I was strongly leaning toward embroidered net instead... and doing the embroidery myself. This is not a difficult task just a very time consuming one..... but much less time consuming than producing the lace from scratch. Now, I've been inspired to add silk ribbon to the bottom of my frills. I'm thinking a bias plaid would look really nice. Now to find the bias plaid silk ribbon... This of course is still not finished.

* On we go to the next improvement, which was able to be made at once. I made a new separate/detached bodice lining from scratch. I love it. Here is where it stood originally:

Here is my improvement:

My new lining also has darts. The old one was attached to the sheer and made it very bulky.

*Lastly, I got rid of that white collar and remade the bodice. Thankfully I had loads of that sheer fabric left and was able to re-cut an entirely new top. The first thing that I did was to add an extra two inches to the length. I was really stuck on what style to make. For a while I was set on a pin-tucked cross-over bodice (like this) and then I thought an infant style boat-neck (like this) with a white fichu would be better. In the end I went back to my original inspiration fashion plate (here) and a great picture of Emily Todd (here). A simple V-neck was all I did. After all, there is just so much going on with the flounces and puffed sleeves that the dress really didn't need anything fancy for the bodice.

For accessories I picked up a summer hat and borrowed the blue silk sash from my daughter's fancy dress. She never wears it anyway. I also pulled a brooch from my grandmother's jewel box. I think it gives a nice contrast.

I'm also still playing with the idea of a white ruffle fichu. White next to the skin is highly recommended in the 1860s. I especially like how the white over a blue flounced dress looks in this fashion plate.

Over all I think the improvements are taking me in a very good direction. I'm very pleased with it.

Want to know what else I'm dreaming about? Check out my inspiration/research board on Pinterest:

Follow Wrapped In Scarlet's board Victorian Influence on Pinterest.

Agate Buttons - 1856

"Fig III. - A New Style of Dress and very beautiful. The corsage is closed up the front with agate buttons and made nearly round at the waist where it is confined by a belt with a gold buckle. A frill of rich black lace forms the braces. The sleeves are quite short the upper port is made of puffings confined by bands running lengthwise. The lower part of the sleeve is a short but wide pagoda and trimmed with black lace." From Peterson's Magazine September 1856

St. Valentine's Day Gift Planning

Now that the excitement of Christmas and New Years is over, it's time to start sewing again. I dated my list this year so I know exactly what I need to do first. My first due date is St. Valentine's Day. At our house this is a gift giving holiday, so let's get started making gifts!

 My favorite gift for this Valentine's Day will be to give my toddler son a tatted collar. Here is the pattern that I plan to use:

This collar design is from The Lady's Companion 1852 and is meant for a lady. However, I think that it would look adorable on my son, as well as taking much less time to make it up, in his petite size. The bars in this pattern are done with a needle.

For my older daughter, I plan to make a barrel bag, or travel bag. She has asked for one and I hadn't had time to make it for her for Christmas, so now it would be a wonderful surprise. I have some more of that gorgeous navy blue wool. Now I just need to find a nice cotton print for lining, and some wide twill tape for the handles.

For my younger daughter, I have planned the simplest gift to give. It should work up so quickly. She shall have a thread case for her embroidery floss. The pattern is in The Workwoman's Guide 1840. She loves embroidery and has every color, so I may end up making her several. The following illustration is one suggested in Godey's Magazine. It's very lovely, don't you think?

My older son didn't get the drum that I wanted to make for him from a wooden cheese box. Some how I just ran out of time and energy for that project. Well, after a short rest, I'm ready to start the project list sprint again.

And I can't forget about making more hand made Victorian Valentine cards. We had so much fun making them last year, we have to do it again!!

I hope you wish me luck in accomplishing my projects, and do tell me about the ones that you have planned. Post a link to your website, blog or facebook so I can see what you've been working on.

More About Lace

Bobbin lace comes by several different names such as pill or pillow lace, cushion lace, thread lace and bone lace. Sometimes it is referred to as Lyme and Honiton lace as well.

Here is a nice story, although I have no idea if it is true, entitled "How Cushion Lace Was Invented". This story was published in Godey's Magazine 1861.

Uses of lace were described in detail in Household Words Vol 2. Some examples are:

Mechlin lace "is used chiefly for trimming night-dresses, pillow-cases, coverlets &c."
Valenciennes lace "is employed for ordinary wear"
Brussels lace "is reserved for bridal and ball-dresses"

Instructions In Crochet

From Treasures in Needlework 1855

Instructions In Tatting

THE WHOLE AET OF TATTING WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
There is no branch of ornamental work in which such great improvements have been made during the last few years as in tatting; in which formerly a mere simple edging, consisting a series of scallops, with or without loops at the edge, was all that was ever attempted; whilst now, not only many various edgings of complicated forms, but collars, sleeves, infants' caps and many other ornamental articles are made entirely in tatting.

The implements employed are, a shuttle and a pin, the latter joined by a fine chain to a ring which is slipped on the thumb. For this, which is generally too thick, and, being made of brass - not very nice in warm weather - we substitute a thick rug needle, suspended to the thumb by a loop of silk braid.

The shuttle is represented on an enlarged scale in the engraving. It is generally made of ivory or bone; but for very fine tatting a netting needle will be found more convenient. The space between the sides of the shuttle is greatly exaggerated in the engraving for the sake of showing it with clearness. The points almost touch in the best shuttles, although, being flexible, the thread slips between them. The end of the thread is slipped through the hole seen in the shaft and tied; and then the thread is wound round until the sides are quite filled up.

Fig 1 is the shuttle; it is then ready for working by a process shown in the engraving.

Fig 2 shows the way the hands are held before any stitch is formed. The end of thread is held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, and the shuttle in the right. Pass the thread round the extended fingers of the left hand and bring it up again between the finger and thumb (some people do not pass it round the little finger; we do and think it an improvement.) There is a space between the fore and middle finsers.

Fig 3 Drop the thread in a loop in front of the left hand and pass the shuttle down between the fingers.

Fig 4 Draw the shuttle through with a slight jerk, which throws the knot or loop on the circle of thread, and bring out the shuttle so that the thread from it to the left hand is in a straight line.

Fig 5 Still keeping the thread so contract the fingers and work up he loop close to the thumb.

Fig 6 Shows the stitch of figure 6 also which is made by throwin the thread lightly over the finger of the left hand and pasng the shuttle up between the fingers and under the bar Diw it out as before holding the thread tight and even and woiing up the loop to the thumb

Fig fehows the hands ready to recommence the first stitch the tweoeine worked alternately

Fig 9 shows the drawing up of the loop and figure 6 to which return the loop drawn up into the form of a small scallop ither a circle semi circle or a deep dent

Fig 11 Fig i Bhows the needle and braid chain suspended from the thumb ya loop of braid.

Hithrto, no use has been made of the pin. Its use is to make te small picots or loops which ornament the edges of some the patterns In figures 12 and 13 we see the effects produtd in tatting with or without the pin Both are what is called he trefoil or shamrock pattern three loops all drawn quite ose and worked as close to each other as possible.

They have each about 12 double stitches one each way in figurel 2 they are done quite plain In figure 13 after 4 stitches the pint of the pin is held parallel with and close above the topoithe loops and before the next stitch is begun the thread stretoed round the fingers is laid over the pin The double stitclis then worked as usual and the thread passed over again befor the next making a picot each time The pin is not re movd until just before the loop is drawn up when a picot is fouri for every time the thread has passed over it

Fig 14 shows a succession of large plain loops of the old fashoned sort.

Fig 15 The loops here are irregular one of 10 double stifehes being followed by another of 20 both drawn up pretty cloely and then one of 26 is not drawn up nearly so much and is fterwards made into the form seen by means of a needle anc thread

Fig 16 shows a succession of Bbamrocks which may be made inb a collar cuff or any other article For the sake of distinct neB they are engraved detached but in working you join thnn wherever they touch For instance when doing the scond join it to the first by the two loops which are so close tofether thus instead of making a fresh picot at those places dnw the circle of thread sufficiently through the opposite piiot for the shuttle to pass through it which dene tighten it bj stretching over the fingers again and proceeding with the next stitch reckoning this join as a picot In this way do one rcw and when making the second row join the loops not only to each other but to those of the first row

Fig 17 This is a very beautiful medallion a succession of which would make an exquisite collar Begin in the centre vitb a large loop of 20 double stitches with a picot after every fdtch Without reaking off your thread but just carrying i through one of the picots work the loops surrounding it leginning with a large one at the point of the oval 7 double icot 2 double picot 2 double picot 7 double Draw it up tightly carry the thread through one picot of the centre and to the next when do a small one 6 double picot 5 double Draw it up and pass to the next which make the same There are 2 large and 8 small loops in the round Fasten off the thread and do the small rings which encircle it each of which must be done separately the thread cut between it and the next and each joined as it is worked to the picots of the inner round and to the last ring

Fig 18 A cluster of stars each having for a centre a ring of 12 double with a picot every second stitch They are to be joined wherever practicable to those surrounding them

We have spoken of double stitches to make it clearer to the reader that we mean one stitch in each direction but in fact these make one only combined and are properly therefore but one stitch

The size of the loops depends on the cotton employed. Ten stitches in No 8 cotton will make a very different loop to the same stitches in No 30. Evans's Tatting Cotton has been made expressly for this work which requires great strength and smoothness combined, and it should be employed for all articles of underlinen; but for collars and cuffs the Boar's Head Cotton is better, No 16, 20 or 24.

From Frank Leslie's Monthly Magazine 1860

Collars

Here is a small collection of ideas for collars from fashion magazines of the day.

From The Ladies' Companion 1860

Collar in Broderie A La Minute

 Materials - Fine Jaconet Muslin, and the Perfectionne Embroidery Cotton No 26 of Messrs. Walter Evans and Co of Derby

"This pretty style of work loses nothing of its vogue, and is, indeed employed extensively for collars and cuffs for morning wear. These collars are always of double muslin, being run together, turned over, and the line of the hem stitched neatly.

The section given of the collar will suffice for the cuff [p 96] also, which should be made only just large enough to fit round the wrist."

COLLAR IN FRIVOLITE

 Materials - Boar's Head Crochet Cotton No 16, or Tatting Cotton No 1 of Messrs Walter Evans and Co of Derby

The directions are found here.

From Arthur's Home Magazine 1859

Here is an old style of collar from The Lady's Companion 1852:

Here are the directions. Interestingly, this is tatting, called Frivolite at the time.

SWISS LACE

LAPPET IN SWISS LACE

"Materials - Brussels net, fine clear lawn, and W Evans & Co's Embroidery Cotton No 36, and Boar's Head Crochet Cotton No 70. Swiss lace (or application as it is sometimes called) is worked by drawing a design on lawn and working it over net. The lawn is then cut away from every part but that of the pattern. It is necessary after tacking the two materials together on toile ciree, to trace the design with embroidery cotton, being very careful to take up a thread of the net as well as the muslin, at every stitch. Then sew it closely over, working a fine buttonhole stitch at the edge only. The centres of the flowers are pierced and sewed over. The centres of the roses are cut out, and sewed over, and the fancy stitches then worked with the Boar's Head Cotton, in English lace, or any other favorite stitch."

From Frank Leslie's Monthly 1860

* A Lappet is a flap of fabric or lace, sometimes used at the sides of a lady's cap.

I really like this one, it looks very simple. I am a little surprised at how simple the edging flowers are. The center flowers are more of what I would expect.

Honestly, I have little patience to do a work of this size all at once. I am sure the ladies of the day would have attached the muslin to the net, traced the entire design and then worked it all before using it. For myself, I would most likely trace just the edging flowers and worked those. Once that was done, I would attach it to my morning cap and enjoy having it. Perhaps later I would be inclined to work the center flowers with their leaves. The cap would probably be too worn by the time I had any interest in adding the edging leaves but I would have enjoyed the cap at each stage anyway. :)

Dress Caps

Here are some dress caps. These would have been worn during the day, while at home.

From Harper's New Monthly Magazine 1858:

"The Dress Cap and Under Sleeves are en ???. In both the puffings are separated by equal intervals, in which the transparents are uncovered. The larger puff of the under sleeve and the centre of the cap are quadrilled by narrow ribbon. The transparents extend through the centre to the end of the tabs. The ribbons may be of any color to suit the taste of the wearer.

The Dress Cap represented above is composed entirely of blonde, ornamented with cineraria flowers.

 From Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1857:

From Arthur's Home Magazine 1860:

This one is from Peterson's 1860 and the one that I think I like the best... and the easiest to make. It is of dotted swiss.

 

Tatting Shuttle

I just got my new tatting shuttle in today. It is 2 1/4 inches and adorable!! I am very impressed at how well it is put together. I can't wait to wind it up and start tatting!!