Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Examples of Wool Dresses

Wool fabrics used for clothing include Alpaca, Cashmere, and Marino, to name a few. There were also fabrics of wool blended with silk or linen. Generally when you see a fabric named as cloth, it is referring to wool.
SPRING DRESS - Arthur's Home Mag 1863
Cuir-colored Alpaca dress, trimmed with rows of black Alpaca braid. The corsage is made with a deep jockey at the back.
SIX NEW STYLE JACKETS - Arthur's Home Mag. 1863
* No 1 Cloth Zouavo jacket edged with military braid *
* No 2 A fine cloth or cashmere jacket beautifully braided and made to wear open or closed in front at the pleasure of the wearer *
No 3 A rich Lyons velvet jacket a la Zouave. Made also in rich glace silk
No 4 A handsome specimen of a new style ornamenting jackets, just introduced, made in fine ribbed-cloth, rich velvet, and silk
No 5 The latest style of tight fitting shapes. This elegant jacket is peculiarly cut very different from the usual body jacket and fits in a superior manner. It has fewer seams and is easier made. Got up in all suitable materials
No 6 Chemise-russe one of the happiest efforts to unite the useful and cheap with a novel and stylish appearance. It will quite supersede the Garibaldi jacket on which it is a great improvement. In cloth cashmere, silk and velvet.
Journal des Demoiselles for December 1862
Première toilette. — Robe de laine anglaise, garnie d'une bande de velours ou de soie. Veste écossaise, tricotée, pour mettre sous un paletot ou chez soi. — Chapeau de velours royal, à plumes. — Rotonde de drap.
First toilet. (facing forward) - English wool dress, topped with a strip of velvet or silk. Scottish jacket, knitted, to put it under a coat or home. - Hat royal velvet feather.
La Modes Illustree for November 1862

Robe de poult de laine gris. Le bas de la jupe est garni avec une ruche la taffettas noir, ayant quatre centimetres la largeur; au-dessus de cette ruche se trouvent quatre rubans de velours noir, dispos?s en quarts de carr?s. Manches demi-larges orn?es comme la robe; corsage montant, ferm? par des boutons de velours noir; le corsage est garni de bretelles dont les pans orn?s comme la robe, tombent  sur celle-ci apr?s avoir pass? sous la ceinture de velours noir.
Dress of gray poult de laine (silk/wool blend). The bottom of the skirt is decorated with a black taffeta ruche, about 4 centimeters wide; above this ruche is found four black velvet ribbons laid out in quarter-squares. The semi-large sleeves are trimmed like the gown; the high body is closed by black velvet buttons and decorated with bretelles adorned on the sides like the dress, falling thereon after having passed under the black velvet belt.
Peterson's Magazine 1862
Fig II (on the right) -  Riding Habit of Blue Cashmere - The skirt is three eighths longer than an ordinary dress skirt. The body is made with a Hungarian basque. The sleeves are close to the wrist, but slashed about the middle of the arm, showing a white under sleeve. Straw hat, trimmed with white and black plumes.
Journal des Demoiselles for September 1862
Toilette de jeune fille. — Robe en alpaga, deux ruches également en alpaga posées au-dessus de l'ourlet. — Corsage montant. — Manches à revers. — Collet pareil à la robe, garni de deux niches. — Chapeau de crin orné de violettes. — Sous-manches en organdi. — Col plissé.
Dress of a young woman. (on the right) - Dress alpaca, alpaca two hives also raised above the hem. - Corsage amount. - Cuffed sleeves. - Collet like the dress, trimmed with two niches. - Hat adorned with purple hair. - Sub-sleeved organza. - Col pleated.
Peterson's Magazine for March 1862
Riding Habit of Dark Brown Cloth. The skirt should be of one yard and a quarter in length when hemmed. The body fits closely to the figure with square skirts behind. Coat sleeve fitting the arm loosely but closed at the wrist with a velvet cuff. Small linen collar and neck tie; brown Swedish gloves; low crowned hat and brown veil.
The What-not; or Ladies' Handy Book
The Walking Dress is composed of silver-grey linsey (on the right). The bottom of the dress is ornamented with five or six rows of narrow violet velvet, placed at equal distances; at the top and bottom of this trimming is placed a narrow plaiting of the same material as the dress. The cape is trimmed the same as the dress. Straw bonnet, trimmed with bands of violet ribbon; curtain of the same material, ornamented with white lace; the whole is surmounted with a large bunch of flowers enveloped in blond.
Peterson's Magazine 1861
Home Dress of Purple Cashmere (on the right), which is trimmed with an imitation of fur called Astracan cloth. the under-body or waistcoat fits close to the figure, and has long tight sleeves. The Zouave jacket is loose, with large flowing sleeves, lined with white silk, quilted. Cap of Honiton lace, trimmed with purple China asters.

ALPACA DRESS OF LIGHT VIOLET COLOR - A ruche of black taffetas borders the skirt, and goes up the front on each side as far as the neck, the dress being made in form "de redingote," and fastened by black buttons; five bands of black velvet (the largest being placed in the middle) are put about the lower edge of the skirt; two of these bands ascend the front, and a second ruche terminates the trimming. The first of these ruches its about one inch, the second one and a half inches in width; both diminish in breadth upon the front of the skirt and upon the corsage. Arthur's Illustrated Home Magazine 1864